The Thumb Aid Climb  C2

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Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  C2 [details] FA:  Probably 1960s Submitted By:  mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Thumb, Mission Gorge.

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A bolt ladder of truly manky 1960s (or older?) compression bolts, most of which are hanging out of the rock by quite a lot leads to some fixed gear that has "been there forever". A fixed nut, the only good piece of fixed gear on the route, leads to the only placement on the route (small gear) and a ledge up and right. The bolt ladder continues to the top but a nice anchor exists on the ledge before these.

The climb is overhanging so is good practice, obviously, for overhanging aid.

Walk off back.

Location 

The thumb is the overhanging pillar near the top, and to the left of the left climber's trail which is a separate formation from the Main Wall. The climb follows up the rusty bolt ladder on the overhanging face.

Protection 

Lots of fixed bolts / rivets / other assorted fixed aid gear. Part of the thrill is how old the gear is but then the FA had quite a safe journey on their then new bolts and pitons. Some may complain if any of this was replaced but I would not be one of those people. Some day it will be a necessity.

Bring lots of quickdraws and some nuts and tieoffs for the hangerless bolt studs plus whatever else it looks like you will want.