Climbers on West Face and Lyon Trautner. Photo: To...
The Three Gossips is the multi-summitted formation in the Courthouse Towers area of Arches. The rock is soft entrada, but it is split with many long crack systems that provide good free and moderate aid routes. Most routes are three pitches long. The West Face is the classic free route at 5.11 with a really nice 5.10ish hands first pitch(also goes easily at A1). Speak No Evil is a nice thin crack system on the east face that can be clean aided.
Drive up the road from the visitors center to the Courthouse Towers pullout. The Three Gossips is on the left side of the road opposite from the Organ and The Tower of Babel. There isn't really a trail to the base, but you can easily reach it by walking along washes and boulders. All routes are most easily reached by scrambling up to the West Face and traversing from there. The slickrock below Speak No Evil and other east face routes is harder to climb than it looks.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Three Gossips
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Three Gossips:
West Face 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Grade III
Featured Route For The Three Gossips
West Face 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c UT
: Moab Area
: ... : The Three Gossips
The West Face climbs the most obvious dihedral on the west(away from the road) face of the three gossips, and climbs to the head nearest the road. The correct dihedral is a stellar looking handcrack with no visible fixed anchors from the base. Be careful to find washes to reach the base-there is a lot of crypto soil and not much of a trail.Pitch 1 - climb fingers and hands through some bulges to a big bulge just before the anchor. There are some fixed pins at a ledge halfway up the pitch. 5....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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