A first pitch that is (how shall we put it?) a regrettable necessity to avoid an uncomfortable scramble to the base of the enjoyable second pitch.
P1 (The Third String 5.2, 60') Climb on crumbly, terror-inducing, shattered rock through eight bolts to a hangers-and-rings anchor.
P2 (Unnamed, 5.10c, 80') Scramble above the anchor to a ledge, above which starts much better quality rock (although there are still loose bits here and there). Climb through eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor on the top left of the formation. The climbing is quite enjoyable with a crux midway through that requires a bit of body positioning trickery. Although the climb really isn't terribly long, the position high above the canyon floor and the consequent feeling of exposure is really fun.
Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the west-most (left-most) line of bolts on the shattered, white rock below that leads up the buttress above. There are two other routes up the upper buttress; this is the left-most (the others, from left to right are .9 and .10a).
It is also possible to get to the base of the second pitch without climbing the first pitch. Approach from the west and scramble along the base of the better quality, upper rock (I've never tried it, so I don't know how scary it is).
P1 8 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 8 bolts, chain and hanger-and-ring anchor.
Looking down at Walt just before it started snowin...
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jan 19, 2009
I didn't like this route quite as much as it's 5.9 neighbor (Covey Leader to Raven); it's not as exciting. It's pretty pumpy,though, and is fun. Still a good climb and definitely worth doing. It took me a lot longer to climb the "5.2" (didn't think it was quite that easy) first pitch than the second pitch because you've got to choose your holds very carefully! Miserable rock. 5.10c felt about right for the second pitch.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Jan 19, 2009
I really liked the second pitch. Not quite as good as the 5.9 neighbor to the right but still quality. The first pitch is a necessary evil...
|By Canyon Copa|
Jun 22, 2012
We just hiked up to the second pitch and skipped the first one altogether. Rock was a little crumbly, but the climb had fun moves all the way up.