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Training Camp
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Covey Leader to Raven S 
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Third String/Unnamed, The S 
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The Third String/Unnamed 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Darren Knezek (P1), Jim Knight (P2)
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 24, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The Training Camp two-pitch routes. 2 The Third St...

Description 

A first pitch that is (how shall we put it?) a regrettable necessity to avoid an uncomfortable scramble to the base of the enjoyable second pitch.

P1 (The Third String 5.2, 60') Climb on crumbly, terror-inducing, shattered rock through eight bolts to a hangers-and-rings anchor.

P2 (Unnamed, 5.10c, 80') Scramble above the anchor to a ledge, above which starts much better quality rock (although there are still loose bits here and there). Climb through eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor on the top left of the formation. The climbing is quite enjoyable with a crux midway through that requires a bit of body positioning trickery. Although the climb really isn't terribly long, the position high above the canyon floor and the consequent feeling of exposure is really fun.

Location 

Located on a tall buttress on the north side of the canyon, at the west end, just before the terrain starts sloping down to the west. Find the west-most (left-most) line of bolts on the shattered, white rock below that leads up the buttress above. There are two other routes up the upper buttress; this is the left-most (the others, from left to right are .9 and .10a).

It is also possible to get to the base of the second pitch without climbing the first pitch. Approach from the west and scramble along the base of the better quality, upper rock (I've never tried it, so I don't know how scary it is).

Protection 

P1 8 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors.
P2 8 bolts, chain and hanger-and-ring anchor.


Photos of The Third String/Unnamed Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at Walt just before it started snowing. <br /> <br />This is actually at the anchors for the middle route, but at the time the left anchor consisted of a single chain and I wanted two.
Looking down at Walt just before it started snowin...

Comments on The Third String/Unnamed Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jan 19, 2009

I didn't like this route quite as much as it's 5.9 neighbor (Covey Leader to Raven); it's not as exciting. It's pretty pumpy,though, and is fun. Still a good climb and definitely worth doing. It took me a lot longer to climb the "5.2" (didn't think it was quite that easy) first pitch than the second pitch because you've got to choose your holds very carefully! Miserable rock. 5.10c felt about right for the second pitch.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 19, 2009

I really liked the second pitch. Not quite as good as the 5.9 neighbor to the right but still quality. The first pitch is a necessary evil...
By Canyon Copa
Jun 22, 2012

We just hiked up to the second pitch and skipped the first one altogether. Rock was a little crumbly, but the climb had fun moves all the way up.