Climb up the vertical seam and cross up and left to the next left leaning seam until reaching a larger crack about 40' up. The first 20' are probably the crux. It is easy to blow it early by putting your gear where your fingers need to go.
Continue up the larger crack to a few liebacks on the left of flakes. At about 100' and then go right on a little ledge to belay.
P2 take any upward direction on easy (4th/easy 5.0) terrain for about 150'.
This route is 2 exfoliation slabs right of Peer Pressure. On the slab you will see a thin vertical seam with a few small nut placements that goes up about 15', with a horizontal seam near the top on the left and another crack starting up and left from the horizontal seam.
Have some very small nuts (#3 or #4 BD) and cams (00, 0, 0 TCUs) for the first 40' or so. After that .5-3" with gear belay of 1-3" on the ledge.
|By Mark L|
Jul 17, 2007
The book rates this as an R climb but if you have several thin pieces I dont see why. Definitely exhilirating for a 5.9 leader and a little pumpy.
|By Howard Chuntz|
Jun 2, 2011
The first accent was lead by Howard Chuntz. Richard Coplin actually found the route and gave it to me as the present he'd promised me. The year was 1979.
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I feel the R is warranted. I was able to get decent pro down low, but making the committing moves left I was well above my last solid piece, I did get a nut in after said cam, but it was dubious at best...if it would have blown there would have definitely been ground fall potential...the 5.8 lieback/arch up higher is awesome and easier than it looks
Aug 12, 2014
"R" rated for sure...I've witnessed a severe ankle turn by someone who had both a solid belay and as much pro as you can get in, but the fall was just at grounder height and the ramping nature of the stone low down hooked the guy's sticky rubber boots. This is not a lead for the budding 5.9 climber. Pro: #1 & 2 RP for start, then have on hand a double set of thin woreds, like a set of RPs #1-4 and a set of stoppers #1-4, then two each #1 Camalots plus some medium Hexes for the rest. I thought the route could was , like, 5.9d.