|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral, 1975|
|Submitted By:||Lou Hibbard on Nov 1, 2011|
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|Comments on The Thief||Add Comment|
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From: San Jose
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
the best way to approach the Thief is to follow Leaning Tower approach trail from Bridaveil parking lot. As soon as you approach via talus the base of the wall, skirt the base down to Watchtower (Leaning Tower approach continue up).
We found that it is easier to approach Thief from right side of Watchtower [ book show 4th class aproch from left]. You climb class 4, easy 5 ( next time I will rope up for this) basically to the base of Megaforce and than do one short rappel down to the base of The Thief.
For average and smaller hangs crux on the Thief can be at the very beginning of the climb when reaching main crack system from the base. At the top of p1 new shiny bolts now, and second pitch can be avoided. The route itself is so good- that it is OK just to go there for this one pitch, since not much good climbing around.
By Kevin Worrall
Apr 18, 2015
I don't usually comment here, but whoever wrote the route description must've botched the approach and groveled up the slot between The Joker and The Thief. It's more direct, but a better, cleaner, smarter way is to the right and then a short down climb to the start of the pitch. Casual to 3rd class.
As for an ugly finish? The photo looking down at the splitter crux is taken from the belay, That IS the finish. I think that says it all.
There is no second pitch or continuation on loose flakes, or Mark and I didn't do one on the FA.
One of the best single pitch thin cracks in The Valley.