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|Submitted By:||Karl Kiser on Sep 27, 2011|
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By Karl Kiser
Sep 27, 2011
|The terse description above came generally from an unsigned topo at Stone Age climbing gym. Those who know the area may fill in the gaps.|
By Arthur Sullivan
Dec 9, 2011
|Thanks for posting this. I spent a lot of time exploring this area and always wondered if a topo existed. It's a much shorter approach than palomas though the rock quality looked suspect in areas. Always made me wonder if there were other forgotten areas near ABQ.|
May 14, 2012
More detail for finding the crags.
At 1.9 miles (the mile marker 11 sign does not exist) from the start of the dirt road above Placitas on the L there is a metal culvert. Cross over the stream just below the culvert via some logs that have been placed there. There is a steep and loose dirt path that leads up to an obvious trail that runs along the cliff. You will be a few hundred feet "downstream" from the L Cliff climbs. Continue past L Cliff a few hundred feet, and just past a log that has fallen against the cliff is the 3rd/4th class scramble up to Center Cliff. The routes are to your R. Returning down the scramble continue "upstream" a hundred yards or so to the 3rd/4th class scramble to R Cliff. You cannot see the climbs from the trail below.
If you want to hike up to just above R Cliff then exactly 2.1 miles from the start of the dirt road above Placitas there is a bridge. Park on the far side and walk back to the downstream side of the bridge. There is a faint path that leads essentially straight up through a debris field . 5 minutes of hiking up leads to a clear more or less flat path. To your R is the Sandia Man cave, to your L and down the path ~ 200ft is the scramble to the Right Cliff and it's two routes.
On Route 4 Left Cliff there is a long run out between bolts 4 and 5. A #1 Camalot in the crack will make it feel much more secure. The six or so easier climbs make this a great beginner area for a day.
Note: Other than Left Cliff this is not a dog friendly area as the ledges are narrow and the scramble is more than the average dog could handle.