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 ADVANCED
Albany Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's For A Day T 
Gemini Dreamin' T 
Reelin' In the Fears T 
Standard and Poors T 
Tao of Dow, The T 

The Tao of Dow 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: hrtrich/dow
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Mike Zarenski thru the crux

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A pretty good climb at a moderate grade. Ascends a nice slab with fair-to-good pro, though a little run out at the top.

START: On the slab below, and a little right of, the tree growing from a crack about 20-25ft up. [Var] Climb the slab, passing to the right of the tree, and climb the slab above (tri-cams and TCU's) to a very shallow flake/left-facing-corner (natural thread possible). Up this and on to a stance (with 1/4" bolt). Now step right and make smearing moves (crux) to the slab above. Move up and left (TCU and/or nut for possible belay and/or directional) and then up along a dike. Continue to the dbl bolt (3/8") anchor of "Fools / Reelin'" ....or, about 10-12 feet before reaching that anchor, step up right and out of the dike to the slab and trees above. 140 +/- ft, 5.8+ PG-13 to R (for the old 1/4" bolt)

Variation: It is possible to start on "Standard and Poors" and move right up the slab to intercept the described route below the flake/corner. This variation is less well protected and you have to fight the tree's branches.

Location 

Roughly 1/2 way along the large tree ledge, Look for a large-ish (6-8" diameter) tree growing on the cliff, with branches brushing the slab above, growing about 20-25 ft up, and just below a small, horizontal overlap. 20 ft, or so, further left the horizontal overlap grows to 2-3 ft in size (and is the start of "Standard and Poors")

Protection 

1 bolt (1/4", may be crap) and some small gear


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By twellman
Jul 8, 2012

This is a fun climb. Long, a couple tricky sections, and mediocre protection. There was only one very old 1/4" bolt about halfway up. There's also a thread about 1/3 of the way up. Tricams and smaller nuts were helpful.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 24, 2013

I want to do Tao of Dow, but I don't have any tri-cams. Can I get good placements with old RP's and small wired stoppers? I live right near Albany in the summer, but I haven't been trad climbing for a while (25 years!), and I want to know how run-out is this thing. I'm too old for any long scrapers. Also, what do you mean by there is a "thread" a third of the way up?
By JChepes
From: West Ossipee, NH
Jul 24, 2013

I remember using a large nut at the top but no small ones. You do want a tri-cam, black I think, down low, or you will have a run-out. A thread is a hole in the rock which a sling can be passed through and used as pro. The most important thing to remember is the only bolt on the climb, which protects the crux, is crap.
Great climb, but I would not want to test that bolt. Top anchors are new. 60m rope will not get you down. You have to downclimb @10 ft to make it. Fun cliff, just needs some new hardware.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 24, 2013

Thanks JChepes. I walked into the cliff today to look at the route, but with all of the trees, it's tough to see unless you traverse from the start of Gemini Dreaming onto that little terrace which would have been dodgy without a rope (mossy, wet, greasy). I think I'll wait awhile to do Tao, as it sounds as if the pro is not too good.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The bolt is an old 1/4". Only one ( where did the "three" come from?!) The climb was done by, and named for Albert Dow, who died in an avalanche on Mt Washington while involved in a rescue.
If you don't like the pro, and you know your way around the top of the cliff, the crux moves of the climb could always be TR'd using two ropes from a tree at the top. I have TR-rope-soloed it in this manner, with a directional or two.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 3, 2014

See, I;m getting old. I think the route to the right has 3 bolts, also around 5.8 or so.
The original route was un named by Hartrich and Dow. Albert died in '82 and Ed Webster proposed the name for his guide. Albert had a hand drawn topo of the cliff and Hartrich gave it to Ed.
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
May 16, 2015

I've never climbed a route with so many tricam eating pockets. Sweet
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jun 11, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

John- I'd say you're thinking of the route on the LEFT, Std & Poors, with the 3 bolts.
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