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The Tao of Choy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Dave Kahler leading.


This fun route begins in the seam/crack, which turns into a right-facing corner about 15 feet above the slab start. Approximately 10 feet higher is a small roof where the corner jogs right. This is the location where a few moves out of the dihedral to the left and up gain a ledge (the same ledge as Do You Want to Live Forever? Not leaving the corner at the appropriate location leads to filthy rock and loose blocks). The remainder of the climb ascends the prominent left-facing dihedral to the anchors at 100 feet. Although a gigantic column forms the upper left-facing corner, the feature is completely solid and enjoyable. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


Pro to 3.5", anchors.


This route is the second crack system down and right from Gully (see squeezing the Lemmon.)

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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we climbed later in the day.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 17, 2009

I've done it that way too and it's sweet,especially the last part right before the anchors..In that little area, I gave up trying to figure out what's a variation of what a long time ago, but there's plenty of anchors up there; eventually you run into one.