Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered 
Asgard 
Balin Goes to Hollywood 
Best of Both Worlds 
Business as Usual 
Chicken Little 
Dead Precedents 
Digital Alarm 
Do You Want to Live Forever? 
Eggashegadrae 
Fear of Lurking 
Few Species 
Flexible Flyer 
Furchrissakes 
Gully 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy 
Hall of the Mountain King 
Hostile Takeover 
Hung Like a Troll 
Hyper Sloth 
If I Had a Hammer 
Internet Troll 
Jerk Whisperer, The 
Loki 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder 
Player Hater's Club 
Run Like Hell 
Sidebottom 
Sky is Falling, The 
Slip Service 
Slot, The 
Smoke and Mirrors 
Spew Feces 
Stalker, The 
Stranger in a Strange Land 
Sudden Death 
Take Apart the Robots 
Talk of the Nation 
Tao of Choy, The 
That's Entertainment 
Trollkind 
Tyr 
Unforgiven 
Vahalla 
You're Fired! 

The Tao of Choy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: SA
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Dave Kahler leading.

Description 

This fun route begins in the seam/crack, which turns into a right-facing corner about 15 feet above the slab start. Approximately 10 feet higher is a small roof where the corner jogs right. This is the location where a few moves out of the dihedral to the left and up gain a ledge (the same ledge as Do You Want to Live Forever? Not leaving the corner at the appropriate location leads to filthy rock and loose blocks). The remainder of the climb ascends the prominent left-facing dihedral to the anchors at 100 feet. Although a gigantic column forms the upper left-facing corner, the feature is completely solid and enjoyable. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


Protection 

Pro to 3.5", anchors.


location 

This route is the second crack system down and right from Gully (see squeezing the Lemmon.)



Comments on The Tao of Choy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we climbed later in the day.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 17, 2009

I've done it that way too and it's sweet,especially the last part right before the anchors..In that little area, I gave up trying to figure out what's a variation of what a long time ago, but there's plenty of anchors up there; eventually you run into one.