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Upper Freeway Wall
Routes Sorted
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Anacram T 
Cakewalk T 
Freeway T 
Junkyard God T 
Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 
MetroLink TR 
Nobody Walks in LA T 
Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Highway) T 
Talking Fish, The T 
Totally Nuts T 

The Talking Fish 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Beck, 9/88
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: Randy on Feb 6, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: "The Talking Fish". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Cake Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.

From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.

Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.

Protection 

To several smaller cams with a few up to 2.5 inches; 3 bolts, 1 fixed pin.


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Talking Fish
BETA PHOTO: Talking Fish

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By Murf
Feb 7, 2005

Not bad, perhaps 2 of 5. Rock quality is not 100%. My somewhat dim recollection is that its perhaps a bit spicy and that I was very happy to have a purple TCU. Should definately be added to anyones Freeway wall rotation ( as well as Quantum Leap ).
By Erik
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Although this route is not much harder than Anacram, the spicy climbing is low on the route. Getting to first bolt is not as easy as it looks and first 20 feet have some crimps that will be removed with more traffic. I always thought it 3 out of 5 stars.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 25, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Seemed risky this one, but pulled right through the crux, top finishing crack was pretty intense for some reason.