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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the climb
One of the San Juan multi-pitch classics-just as good if not better than Ames Ice Hose. Approach as for the Skylight area climbs, and keep skiing up the road past the climbing. You will see the big drip on the left. Head up the slope to the base of the climb, being wary of the avalanche danger. Should take about 1.5 hours.
1st pitch is straightfoward ice, anywhere from WI4 to 5 depending on the conditions. You can belay on the left side of the ledge from a small tree.
For pitch 2, move the belay about 30 feet to the right, with some questionable pro. I used a KB and a nut, but it is a huge ledge. The 2nd pitch is the business, linking up ice hummucks in a leftward rising traverse. Bad rock, thin smears and drips, really wild (WI6 M6?), lots of rock gear on this pitch. After the hummocks traverse left to a corner/groove and go straight up for another 30 ft. Some fixed gear and more rock pro for you to throw in. Belay at the ledge, with some funky gear on the left side of the ledge.
The third pitch is an amazing all ice picth. Traverse back right on to the ice and climb the steep stuff (WI 5/5+?) to the top, all screws. At the top, traverse right to a tree belay/rappel.
For the easiest descent, DON'T rap off the first tree, walk right a little more, so you can rap straight down to the next tree. Watch your rope ends, two 60m raps will put you back at your packs. Hope the beta helps, just enough to get you out there.
12 screws (10, 13 and 16 cm) 1 set of cams from 0.5" to 3", 1 or 2 LA/KBs, 12 runners (include a few screamers).
The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.
BETA PHOTO: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07
Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman
Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.
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BETA PHOTO: Lean and Mean condition 3-08
Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.
Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.
The Talisman December 21, 2004. Climber unknown. M...
Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upwar...
Looking down from the third belay.
Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Looking down at the third belay after turning the ...
Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the to...
Kyle Dempster on the third pitch in super lean con...
|By Alan Searcy|
From: Pine, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
rating: WI5+ M6 R
Giant ass-whuppin that left me retard happy.
|By Rob Griz|
Apr 3, 2008
rating: WI5 M6+
No bolts, all balls. One of the finer pure trad mixed lines. A bit lean but stellar at WI5 M6+R.