The Talisman  WI6 M6

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade IV Consensus:  WI5-6 M6 [details] FA:  P1 T Dickey, P2 unknown Season:  Dec. to Apr. Submitted By:  Evan Stevens on Jan 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the climb

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

One of the San Juan multi-pitch classics-just as good if not better than Ames Ice Hose. Approach as for the Skylight area climbs, and keep skiing up the road past the climbing. You will see the big drip on the left. Head up the slope to the base of the climb, being wary of the avalanche danger. Should take about 1.5 hours.

1st pitch is straightfoward ice, anywhere from WI4 to 5 depending on the conditions. You can belay on the left side of the ledge from a small tree.

For pitch 2, move the belay about 30 feet to the right, with some questionable pro. I used a KB and a nut, but it is a huge ledge. The 2nd pitch is the business, linking up ice hummucks in a leftward rising traverse. Bad rock, thin smears and drips, really wild (WI6 M6?), lots of rock gear on this pitch. After the hummocks traverse left to a corner/groove and go straight up for another 30 ft. Some fixed gear and more rock pro for you to throw in. Belay at the ledge, with some funky gear on the left side of the ledge.

The third pitch is an amazing all ice picth. Traverse back right on to the ice and climb the steep stuff (WI 5/5+?) to the top, all screws. At the top, traverse right to a tree belay/rappel.

For the easiest descent, DON'T rap off the first tree, walk right a little more, so you can rap straight down to the next tree. Watch your rope ends, two 60m raps will put you back at your packs. Hope the beta helps, just enough to get you out there.

Protection 

12 screws (10, 13 and 16 cm) 1 set of cams from 0.5" to 3", 1 or 2 LA/KBs, 12 runners (include a few screamers).

Photos of The Talisman Slideshow

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The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.	BETA PHOTO: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07	Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman Pho...
Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.	Ice Fest, 2007...Getting into the business, P2 The...	Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blo...
P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don'...	Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ic...	A lot different than the last two years. Decent c...
BETA PHOTO: Lean and Mean condition 3-08	Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.	Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.
2007.	2007.	The Talisman December 21, 2004. Climber unknown. M...
Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upwar...	Looking down from the third belay.	Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Looking down at the third belay after turning the ...	Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the to...	Kyle Dempster on the third pitch in super lean con...