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WatchTower
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Alchemy T 
Cry for Merlin T,S 
Crybaby S 
Excalibur T 
Seventh Sojourn T 
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 
Watchman's Secret T 

The Sword In The Stone (Clarent) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff and Sondra Ripperger
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 15, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the second pitch with the crux right...

Description 

The first pitch is a link up of two previously established routes. The second pitch climbs the obvious corner above the Excalibur belay and is stellar with continuous 5.10+ climbing and a hard crux section. The third pitch has a bit of lichen still but nothing that makes it too difficult and in general the rock is really good for a final pitch in the Sandias.

  • Pitch 1- Follow the bolts of The Watchman's Secret until nearly at the first anchor of that route and where it crosses the first pitch of Excalibur. Head left, follow Excalibur to the first anchor of that route. 120 feet, 5.10, mostly bolts with a few small pieces, nuts and finger size cams.

  • Pitch 2-Head up Excalibur just past the bolt. Where you would step left into the far left, left facing corner, instead head up the very shallow and thin left facing corner that you are in. Follow this to a very difficult move getting over a bulge into the corner above (crux) passing a bolt. Once in the corner, spaced out finger locks and stemming lead up to a roof. Pass the roof on the right and follow the steep left facing flake up to a bolted belay. 100 feet, 5.12, nuts and all the small cams to finger size and a single set up to #2 or #3 camalot.

  • Pitch 3-Step right into the left facing corner. Follow this up past a roof on good holds. Try to place a piece of gear out left of the corner above the roof to keep the rope from jamming a few feet above the lip. Continue up the corner until you can step over right to the anchor at the top of The Watchman's Secret. 80 feet, 5.9, nuts, set of cams with extra #.5 to #1 camalots.


Location 

Starts just right of Seventh Sojourn following the bolts of Watchman's Secret.


Protection 

Stoppers, cams to #2 or #3 camalot, with doubles to a #1 and triples of Blue TCU/Green Alien and Yellow TCU/Yellow Alien. Slings and draws.



Photos of The Sword In The Stone (Clarent) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the third pitch, you can see the rope trying to wedge itself in the corner above the bushes, place gear out left after turning the roof to avoid this.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the third pitch, you can see the rop...
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