Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Paul Comier and Alex Shultz, May 1998
Page Views: 762 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Looking up and left from the base of "Part the Sea" two new-looking Aluminum-T-Bar-Hangered 3/8" bolts can be seen about 50-70 ft up. These are on the climb The Superior Races F.A. by P. Comier & A. Shultz 1998. [ The Aluminum T-Bar hanger is sort of a "trade mark" of a Comier route, and these look like he either recently installed, or recently replaced older bolts. ]

START- We took advantage of the somewhat clear ground at the start of "Part the Sea" and started here. The FA may have started a few feet left. There's a vegetated dirt "ledge" a few feet up and left of "Part the Sea" which is probably the actual start.

P1 - One move on "Part", then immediately move left and then up (5.5 R/X) to the first bolt. Past this to a small flake-overlap, over this (Yellow Camalot TCU; crux for shorter climbers) and the 2nd bolt. We belayed on the ledge (gear, med. cams) just above the 2nd bolt. 115ft NEClimbs.com's listing is 5.7, we thought 5.7+ or 5.8- PG-13/R with 5.5 or so R/X. 

P2 - (can be combined with P1 as the FA-res did) Up on solid, but poorly protectable rock, passing another, older Alumnium-Hangered 3/8" bolt. Above this trend up and left to the bolted belay of "Lead Poisoning" [Note, new 3/8" bolts...see "Mouseketeers"] 80-90 ft 5.5 PG/R [ NOTE: We totally missed the normal bolted belay off to the left, and headed for the small oak-tree clump directly above the bolt and rapped from there. At the time the belay bolts had not yet been replaced, and they are fairly well "hidden" in thr corner. These small (2015) trees are at the exact level, and about 30-35 ft right of, the "LP" belay.]

P3 - per "NEClimbs.com" "Move right 20 ft and climb the blocky finish to the top. 80 ft 5.6" This has been reported as quite dirty and harder than 5.6, see comments.

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (Now 3/8" SS), then another 2-rope rap to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Normal rack, TCU's and/or Aliens for the lower section and the flake-crack on P1.

Photos

loading