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DescriptionSmaller Sub-area near the actual true summit of Eagle Peak. Home to over 20 routes, some up to 4 pitches in length. The highlight of the area is the "Irie Headwall", a gorgeous chunk of orange granite in the middle of the buttress holding many quality pitches. There is a nice large broken ledge system about 200 feet from the summit at the base of the "Irie Headwall" that you can rap into. You can access most of the classic climbs from here, but you have to be able to climb 5.11 or rap to the bottom and hike to get back out. Getting ThereFollow the approach directions and after the switchbacks stay straight at the fork. Follow this uphill for another 1/2 mile to the summit of the peak. Can also be approached from the Main Wall but its much easier to go to the summit and rap in. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Summit:
Sanitarium - Irie Headwall pitch 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Hang Em High 5.11d Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For The Summit
*note - Sanitarium is a 4 pitch climb that you can begin from the base of the wall, but its also quite easy to rap and access a big broken ledge system in the middle of the summit wall. A lot of classic climbs tackle the beautiful orange face above this ledge, dubbed the "Irie Headwall", which is about 200 feet high. I've climbed at this area a few times and its much easier to hike the main trial to the top of the summit crag and rap in/climb out. Thus the reason I've listed many of top pitche...[more] Browse More Classics in CA |