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The Style That's Free 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham and Luke Parady 9/99
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 9, 2013

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Description 

Another Dave and Luke 5.14. This one sees very little action but sounds pretty fun to me. It consists of a hard bouldery sequence to a beautiful 5.11+ flake finishing at the Restless Native anchor.

Clip the first bolt of Cote D Azure then traverse right to tackle a crimpy bulge with bad feet. You are rewarded after this boulder problem with more moderate climbing on an amazing flake to the top.

Few have climbed it but if you have, please chime in with anything I've missed.


Location 

The route starts on the E-ticket ledge and climbs up to the Restless Native anchor.


Protection 

Bolts to anchor with fixed biners.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 9, 2013

I can vouch for the upper part being beautiful. I didnít seriously work the crux since it didnít seem very doable for me. I think I remember powerful, basically big campus moves off horrid tweaks. Too bad Dave didnít glue on some rocks for holds for us, lol (jk).

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 10, 2013

lol, well they already tried that trick one route to the left and people freaked out for some reason haha...

By S. Neoh
Mar 10, 2013

I do not recall any serious freak out caused by the bolt-on hold (on what is now Cote). There was a current of discontent. Then my buddy SteveB, in his usual cool and understated way, just worked and freed the climb w/o the artificial hold. I do not think it was Steve who removed the bolt-on hold. Mark, am I remembering right? Darn if I remember if the route name changed after it was totally freed. It would not surprise me if Steve just let the old name stand.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 11, 2013

It was a random glued on rock. I don't remember who actually removed it, John himself or even possibly Ward or me. Now that I think of it, I vaguely remember knocking it off with a hammer. I don't think there was a lot of stink because there weren't really that many people getting on it at the time and most just kind of rolled their eyes and had other things to think about. At that time sport climbing was relatively new and in rebelling against a strict trad ethic people were still working out what would be acceptable, so some odd things occurred, like bolt on holds at Sundown.

Yeah, I think Steve kept the original name.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 11, 2013

i was just messing around saying people freaked out haha but thanks for the added history...