The Stroke of Midnight 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare & Matt Fetbrod, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006 |
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After TR'ing the roof from the second bolt, Luke i...
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Description A two move wonder, but not bad. The crux is getting from the ground to the 2nd bolt, mantling at the lip of an overhang; if you blow this move you could deck, fall into the belayer or at least grate past the edge of the overhang, so preclipping the second bolt might be advised, perhaps while descending Weather Report. The start/crux is pretty engaging but the rest of the pitch is ho-hum.
Location At a blank bulge/roof ~5m right of After Midnight.
Protection 9 bolts.
There are some rounded holds, here, but it's easie...
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A high step leads to better holds and some runout ...
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Higher up it gets steep. You pull left into a roun...
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BETA PHOTO: Mike B pulling the crux on Stroke of Midnight.
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BETA PHOTO: Mark, standing at bottom of route.
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| Comments on The Stroke of Midnight |
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By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 16, 2006
| What a piece of crap...along with its 5.9 brother to the right. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2007
| I thought this was pretty good. I did the roof with a TR from the second bolt. The moves left and then over the bulge were pretty hard and spooky. I was gripped making the third clip--on the edge of tipping out. After the bulge easy climbing lead to a steep 8 or 9 finish up a rounded crack/trough feature with a hand jam or two. |
By Brent Apgar
Apr 11, 2010
| The start to the route definitely feels forced and is going to feel harder for the shorter folks even using the cheater blocks underneath the roof. I thought that the rest of the climbing was worthwhile. |
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