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|Comments on The Streaked Wall||Add Comment|
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By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jul 9, 2009
Lattitudes: most dangerous, most delicate and prone to destruction. Ladders really suck, bring a drill.
Tale of the Scorpion: best route, most likely to stand the test of erosion/time, lots of safe, fun aid climbing, least amount of bad sugar.
Rodeo Queen: the business. hardest route. Good Friday pitch could send you for a huge ride, like a 300 footer. Direct start to Rubicon was hard and dangerous, maybe best to avoid this. Most bad sugar.
Lord Helmet: My bet, very hard.
Wet Stone: Obviously totally different. Less committing, longer, also quite hard. Kind of like a right side EC route--feature linking, traversing, chimneys, 1700 feet of wall...
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 26, 2015
Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on the central leaning "crack" that ends in a blank headwall.
We were returning to Colorado after spending a month in Yosemite. We bought a box of Red Head bolts in St George. I only had a handful of drill bits left over from the previous spring's bolting on the Halucinogen Wall and Popes Nose. Winter was coming and we only had hammocks. But we had one ace.
An ancient man in Springdale helped us out. He ignored our long hair and lack of money. With great effort due to his condition, he kindly ground our cliff-hangers into 1/4" bat hooks. As if to explain his unusually decrepit physical state, he told us that a lot of people got cancer after the St George area was blanketed by nuclear test fallout.
Ranger Dick, the head of the park, was very concerned and watched us every day as we fixed ropes on the approach, ferried loads, and worked on the first pitch. He was wise to the overhanging blankness and impossibility of either a rescue or retreat.
The first bolt I placed broke. I finished the pitch anyway and came down off two gently torqued bolts. We knew we need better gear and left.
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