Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Bridge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Tango 
Angel's Arete 
Are You An Idiot? 
Are You Experienced? 
Blunder and Frightening 
Dresden Corner 
Easily Flakey 
Englishman's Crack 
Gag Reflex 
Handsome and Well-Hung 
High Times 
Horton's Tree 
International Incident 
Labor Day 
Let the Wind Blow 
Let's Get Physical 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity 
Mega Magic 
Monkey See, Monkey Do 
Penalty Situation 
Strategem, The 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) 
Team Machine 
Tree Route, The 

The Strategem 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Carl Samples, Stuart Pregnall 1988
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Joel Longo on Jun 27, 2010
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Cooper Varney crushing old school style.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


As the name implies, you need a little strategy to decipher this gem of a route. Almost immediately you're faced with a thought provoking less than vertical face, lightly spattered with slopey crimps, some better than others. After that it's not over. Work up to where the wall starts to overhang and the pump clock starts. Race for the chains going a little out of your way after the last bolt.


To the right from the stairs around a few corners. After Pirouette and before The Midas Touch. If you reach the Rock Shelter Cave you've gone too far.


This route was rebolted summer of 2010. The pin was replaced with a bolt making it a total of 6 bolts and anchors.

Comments on The Strategem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alan Howell
May 8, 2012

I must be reading this route wrong as this thing has spit me off every single time. I consider myself a decent face climber but you need steel hooks for fingers for this route. I would love to see someone actually do this route as I have never seen it sent. I question the grade as it seems more like 12+. Going for another attempt in a couple weeks so if you hear loud cussing...