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Queen Anne's Head
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East Face/Queen Anne's Head T 
Gil-O-tine T 
South Arete T 
Stranger, The T 
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The Stranger 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Josh Deuto
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 29, 2001

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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route climbs an interesting groove feature on the steep west face of Queen Anne's Head, the jutting pinnacle low on the south side of the 3rd Flatiron. Access the pinnacle either via the 1911 Gully (the gully paralleling the south side of the Flatiron's East Face) or by scrambling up from the Ghetto.

    A large ledge feature runs along the base of the very overhanging west face. Step on (unprotected )at the obvious notch right of center and traverse right along the crack for about ten feet, until you can stand up. Climb directly up the red-brown face above on positive holds, moving left along a horizontal fluting to finish.


    This is a short route, so you won't need tons of gear. Bring a set of stoppers, a #4 Camalot, a #2 Camalot and two #1 Camalots or pieces of equivalent size. You'll also need gear for the belay, though you can belay off of fixed rappel anchors at the top of the spire.

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