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The Wasp/The Sting
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,917 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Bury on May 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
The most engaging line on the wall. Low traffic has kept things from cleaning up thus far. But a worthy line for the adventurous.
Steep climbing out of the cave leads to the long, low angle face above. The route is capped with a small roof, which contains several variations.
Although it is possible to link pitches, managing the lower and upper roofs is more reasonable when the climb is broken up into three pitches.
Pitch 1-
two options:
-The Wasp [5.8] lieback out the left side of the cave. The crux is getting into the lieback.
-The Sting [5.10+ R] big moves on overhanging terrain out the cave. The crux is pulling the lip.
Both first pitch variations end just above the cave at slung huecos.
Pitch 2-
Easy climbing follows a system of huecos upward. Continue upward until a crack opens up, offering better pro.
Belay at the small but sturdy oak, down and right from the high roof, or construct a belay.
Pitch 3-
A steep section of exposed moves past a roof, 200+ feet off the deck.
From the belay, head left to the roof and surmount it via one of three weaknesses.The leftmost crack is 5.9, the middle is 5.8, and the rightmost is 5.7.
Getting to the 5.9 crack from the oak belay includes a great hand traverse beneath the roof.
A large oak with slings makes it easy to rappel back down and sample each top-out variation.
*tattered slings marking the top of pitch 1 on 'The Sting' replaced with black webbing and tan ring Oct. 19th 2013*
Steep climbing out of the cave leads to the long, low angle face above. The route is capped with a small roof, which contains several variations.
Although it is possible to link pitches, managing the lower and upper roofs is more reasonable when the climb is broken up into three pitches.
Pitch 1-
two options:
-The Wasp [5.8] lieback out the left side of the cave. The crux is getting into the lieback.
-The Sting [5.10+ R] big moves on overhanging terrain out the cave. The crux is pulling the lip.
Both first pitch variations end just above the cave at slung huecos.
Pitch 2-
Easy climbing follows a system of huecos upward. Continue upward until a crack opens up, offering better pro.
Belay at the small but sturdy oak, down and right from the high roof, or construct a belay.
Pitch 3-
A steep section of exposed moves past a roof, 200+ feet off the deck.
From the belay, head left to the roof and surmount it via one of three weaknesses.The leftmost crack is 5.9, the middle is 5.8, and the rightmost is 5.7.
Getting to the 5.9 crack from the oak belay includes a great hand traverse beneath the roof.
A large oak with slings makes it easy to rappel back down and sample each top-out variation.
*tattered slings marking the top of pitch 1 on 'The Sting' replaced with black webbing and tan ring Oct. 19th 2013*
Protection
Double rack of cams; BD (#.3-3), One #4, nuts
This route is 100% bolt free.
Top-Roping:
A top-rope can be set up on The Sting by first climbing pitch one of The Wasp. At the slung huecos, equalize several more huecos to create a bomber TR setup. There is webbing and a fat ring to lower from when you are done.
This route is 100% bolt free.
Top-Roping:
A top-rope can be set up on The Sting by first climbing pitch one of The Wasp. At the slung huecos, equalize several more huecos to create a bomber TR setup. There is webbing and a fat ring to lower from when you are done.
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