The Wasp/The Sting  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Season:  Avoid cold snaps+summer heat Submitted By:  Alexander B. on May 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Sting/Wasp linkup.

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Description 

The first pitch [5.10] can be done as its own climb. It consists of big, overhanging, reachy moves out the cave left of the platform. The crux is pulling the lip of the cave [Note: the 5.10 moves can be avoided via a 5.8 lieback variation at the leftmost of the cave (The Wasp)]. Above the crux, the angle kicks back and easy climbing follows a system of huecos upward. The huecos then disappear and although the climbing remains easy, protection becomes difficult [R]. Continue upward until a crack opens up, allowing for solid pro. Belay at either of two trees, or construct a belay below the roof above. The second pitch consists of heading to the above mentioned roof and surmounting it via one of three cracks. The leftmost is 5.9, the middle is a bit easier, and the rightmost is the easiest. Walk off through the main descent gully, or rap.

Location 

The route begins in the back of the obvious cafe left of the platform. Descend via the main descent gully.

Protection 

This route is 100% bolt free (long may it be that way). To protect the crux [the cave start], sling the obvious horn. A fall at the lip of the cave can be caught by this horn (I've seen it happen), but a number 1 and/or 2 Camalot can keep you feeling safe.
If doing The Wasp,a number 3 camalot protects the steep start, and a number 4 fits perfectly behind the upper flake.
After the huecos above the cave, the pro goes from thin to none. Small stoppers are the name of the game. Once the crack opens up again, protection is elementary. The roof moves at the top of the climb can be safely protected by numbers 1 and 2 Camalots.