This route is better than Hoodwink and one of the best multipitch climbs of its grade in Tuolumne. Varied and sustained climbing with great position and excellent exposure combined with good protection makes it super fun.
Pitch 1 climbs the excellent hand and finger crack first pitch of Hoodwink 5.8 and gear belay.
Pitch 2 ascends moderate climbing right past two pins and two bolts. At the second bolt, improbable thin face climbing leads left past 5.9+ with a nice mantle finish then head up past a third bolt to a bolted belay. Don Reid shows a gear belay 30 feet above this, but the person leading pitch 3 will be thankful to have the extra gear if you belay at the bolts.
Pitch 3 goes up the easy corner then underclings the roof that is just incredible climbing, turn the right side and belay, 5.9+.
Pitch 4 is the business, a clean short thin finger crack with good gear, sweet exposure, beautiful jams leads to easy climbing and a gear belay on a nice ledge, 5.10-.
Pitch 5 takes the easy corner to low angle and minimally protected face climbing which ends at a bolted belay, 5.6.
Continue up fourth class to begin the down climb.
This route starts on the south face of Harlequin Dome sharing the same first pitch as Hoodwink. To descend, walk down west to the gully between Harlequin and Stately Pleasure Dome and follow a faint trail down. The descent is easy and safe and should take about 15 minutes back to your pack.
Protection should include small stoppers to 2-1/2 inch cams. Emphasize 1 inch to 2 inch cams for pitch 1 and 3. No micro nuts are needed. Double ropes may help on pitch 2 and 3 to reduce rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: End of the 5.9 roof.
Diana climbing up from the bolted second pitch bel...
Sep 29, 2010
We climberd this route a few weeks ago and had a great time on it. The old school 5.9+ slab moves were a bit interesting. be sure to continue the seccond pitch up past the anchors to the edge of the roof for a better balay. Oh and if you are 6.4" like me make sure you dont wear a backpack on the roof traverse. Ill just say it made things a bit more trickey.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 31, 2011
While I had a good time on this route I find a hard time reconciling the P4 description with what we climbed.
The finger crack is indeed short but with iffy gear and potential to fall onto the belay ledge. After the initial reachy moves the remainder of the pitch is fun with an invigorating run-out to the top.