One of the best trad multipitch climbs of its grade in Tuolumne. Varied and sustained climbing with great position and excellent exposure combined with good protection makes it super fun.
Pitch 1 climbs the excellent hand and finger crack first pitch of Hoodwink 5.8 and gear belay. Combining this short pitch with the next pitch is not recommended.
Pitch 2 ascends moderate climbing right past two pins and two bolts. At the second bolt, improbable thin face climbing leads hard left past 5.9+ with a nice mantle finish then head up past a third bolt to a bolted belay. Either belay at the bolt anchor or continue up to the left side of the pitch 3 roof and make a gear belay.
Pitch 3 goes up the easy corner then underclings the roof that is just sustained incredible climbing, turn the right side and belay, 5.9+.
Pitch 4 is the business, a clean short thin finger crack with good, tricky to place gear, sweet exposure, beautiful jams leads to easy climbing and a gear belay on a nice ledge, 5.10-.
Pitch 5 takes the easy corner to low angle and minimally protected face climbing which ends at a bolted belay, 5.6R.
Continue up unprotected fourth class slab to begin the down climb.
This route starts on the south face of Harlequin Dome sharing the same first pitch as Hoodwink. To descend, walk down west to the gully between Harlequin and Stately Pleasure Dome and follow a faint trail down. The descent is easy and safe and should take about 15 minutes back to your pack.
Protection should include small stoppers to 2-1/2 inch cams. Emphasize 1 inch to 2 inch cams and long slings for the roof traverse/undercling.
BETA PHOTO: End of the 5.9 roof.
Diana climbing up from the bolted second pitch bel...
Sep 29, 2010
We climberd this route a few weeks ago and had a great time on it. The old school 5.9+ slab moves were a bit interesting. be sure to continue the seccond pitch up past the anchors to the edge of the roof for a better balay. Oh and if you are 6.4" like me make sure you dont wear a backpack on the roof traverse. Ill just say it made things a bit more trickey.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 31, 2011
While I had a good time on this route I find a hard time reconciling the P4 description with what we climbed.
The finger crack is indeed short but with iffy gear and potential to fall onto the belay ledge. After the initial reachy moves the remainder of the pitch is fun with an invigorating run-out to the top.