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 ADVANCED
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

The Sting 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Russ Clune, Dan McMillian and Russ Raffa, 1983
Page Views: 4,018
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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GOING!

Description 

Locate the short, clean wall in an alcove to the right of the The Yellow Wall. The Sting climbs up a series of horizontals (what else?) in the middle of the wall.

The start holds a V3-ish boulder problem that is slightly spicy considering the lack of gear and the menacing boulder just to your left. Great gear can be found at the first horizontal. The good holds continue to the final boulder problem before the anchors. I was told that the beta is a full-on double dyno to the ledge, but I have reason to believe that this person hosed me on the beta, thus making me fall and laughing at me. A small crimp offers a static alternative to the ill-advised dyno.

After the bouldery start, The Sting is a well-protected, pumpy route that climbs more like a sport route given its big moves and relatively steep angle.

There is a nest of questionable fixed tat directly above the route; it is possible to climb Lisa to access it.

Protection 

Cams up to 3+ inches.


Photos of The Sting Slideshow Add Photo
Getting set up for the boulder problem on The Sting, which is a big lunge to the next horizontal. Photo Kayte Knower.
Getting set up for the boulder problem on The Stin...
leading
leading
just before
just before
going...
going...
going
going
gone!
gone!

Comments on The Sting Add Comment
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By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Date for that first ascent is 1983. As one might guess from the description, this climb is harder for the vertically challenged. Most folks TR it after leading Lisa.
By doze
From: Denver, CO
Apr 23, 2009

In fact the first move is perfectly protectable with ballnutz #2 or #3 and blue and green BD C3.
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The initial climbing off the ground can be done statically to the left of the dyno variation. I remember placing a bomber nut on the initial seam (where climber has hands in beta photo). In all the pitch only took six pieces (I placed two cams on the horizontal before the exit crux - static version, using crimp up and left) and felt well protected all the way. The standard beta for the crux is to indeed throw for the final horizontal, but I have seem better success with the static variation.
By Ian Wauchope
From: Dover, NH
May 5, 2011

The dyno to finish is good beta. I tried with the small crimps and it felt way harder. With a dyno you are going from jug ledge to jug ledge, but it does seem improbable as you hang below it. Great .75 placement at the move.
By chris_vultaggio
Oct 5, 2011

All-points-off dyno finish is definitely exciting, you can stitch up the gear as much as you want before making the move to the top.

Awesome route, great moves.
By Dale Storti
Aug 27, 2012

My first pieces were red C3 in opposition with the small purple BD nut. I protected the move shown in my picture with a green C3 slotted in where my left hand is. I used a dyno to finish.
By Will Stat
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I wouldn't recommend placing gear for the first dyno, it's much nicer to land on a crash pad from 8 feet up than try to catch a lead fall there.
By David Stowe
Nov 10, 2012

Bad advice about not placing gear at the start unless you are sure that you will hit that move. Blue alien is bomber and I have seen it catch more than one person there. With that good gear you will not deck unless you have a really bad belay.
By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Sep 30, 2013

Wow what a bitchin' line, even though it's short and doesn't go through a roof! Powerful and bold but it's actually all there: 3 horizontals where 2 cams will fit in each (2x #3 Camalot and/or a #4 C4, Red+Yellow Aliens, #1+#.75 Camalots). At many newer sport areas this would be 12a or b, and have 4 or 5 bolts. I 2nd or 3rd not putting any gear in the start and just bouldering it out, I think it's safer. Using the crimp on the last move is definitely the way to go for me at least. I thought that middle move was the hardest. How did the FA protect the middle?

I think the anchor is a heaping mess and even though it's a crack, come'on put a couple bolts in there! Sure there are like 5 nuts in there but 2 were loose when I got there.