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The Sting 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 1,081
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Oct 20, 2006

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Me finishing up the redpoint crux on The Sting in ...

Description 

This route follows the incredible black streak to the right of Flight of the Bumblebee. Climb decent holds up to the 2nd bolt, which is difficult to clip, and then tackle the v9-ish crux on tiny pockets, crimps and one very strenuous undercling. After that you have a slight rest followed by a v4/5 redpoint crux, requiring accuracy to a 3-finger pocket off of some crimpy sidepulls. After all of that, enjoy great 5.9 climbing for another 30 feet or so.
Can't wait for a repeat. The line is 4 stars, but I only gave it 3 because the crux is such an ass-kicker.

Protection 

9 bolts, open cold shut anchors.


Photos of The Sting Slideshow Add Photo
Me pulling into the crux of The Sting.
Me pulling into the crux of The Sting.
lee envisioning all that's involved, lee has not sent.  <br />just an image....
lee envisioning all that's involved, lee has not s...
Ugghh. The crux of the Sting
Ugghh. The crux of the Sting
Lee finding out the real size of that crimp <br />
Lee finding out the real size of that crimp
The hardest move on the Sting (actually getting into position to do this move is what's hard).
The hardest move on the Sting (actually getting in...
Flight and The Sting, 5.13a and 5.13c consecutively and continuously. The (shorter) black slab on the left side of the photo is Dragonfly 5.9+
Flight and The Sting, 5.13a and 5.13c consecutivel...

Comments on The Sting Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Mar 20, 2007

Greg,
I've been thinking about getting on The Sting. Worth it?
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 21, 2007

Of course it's worth it! It needs a 2nd ascent. It's been sitting there, fairly dormant, for ten years (I did it in 1997)!
McNabb has the beta. It's funny, I was just wondering if you were considering getting on it. I'd be so psyched to see someone do it. Definitely let me know if you get on it!
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Aug 20, 2007

Hey Greg,
Are you coming to town anytime soon? I got on the Sting one day a few months ago with Jason and Lee. Did all the moves but it felt hard for sure. Jason and Lee were both able to find better sequences on it than me. I found getting into the undercling wasn't that bad but thought the throw to the edge was real tough. Probably going to get on it again when the temps go down.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Aug 25, 2007

Hey Josh. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be coming back to town this season. I wish I was there right now, but I need to actually try to finish grad school...
Grabbing the undercling wasn't too bad, but getting stood up was the hard part for me. Once I was all the way stood up and had the undercling locked at my waist, I could just deadpoint to the edge. Maybe it's a difference in height. But, I remember just struggling getting fully stood up.
Keep me updated if you get on it. I love hearing any and all spray (especially if it's about one of my routes).
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Oct 3, 2011

The Sting has a 2nd ascent! Nice work Mr. Hirsch.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Oct 30, 2011

The Sting has a 3rd ascent! Nice work Mr. Terveen.