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 ADVANCED
The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Renegade aka The Stigma 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970, FFA Todd Skinner/ Alan Watts 1986
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dave Schultz entering the first hard section of Th...

Description 

This stunning thin crack starts out hard with sustained 5.12- climbing up to a large Xenolith. A few tough moves get you established on the large foothold at the first bolt. From here the climbing becomes 5.13 in a hurry and within 5 feet all good footholds vanish. (Rumor says a useful foothold for the top section broke in the last 5 years).

Torque on the tiny pin scars, wishing that your fingers were smaller, and relish the idea that there are two good holds in the final 40 feet. Seems to be pretty solid 5.13 climbing.

This route is often used to for clean aid practice. You can test out body weight placements on the upper half, backed up by the free climbing bolts.

Location 

This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.

A top rope can be setup on this climb by doing the Enigma and rappelling or lowering from the a bolted anchor. You will need to swing a ways to the left. Clipping a few draws on the midway anchor and bolts will help get you to the Stigma anchor.

Protection 

Thin gear leads to two spaced bolts protecting the crux section. Bolted anchor with lower-off biners.


Photos of The Renegade aka The Stigma Slideshow Add Photo
Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley...
Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley...
Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Je...
Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Je...
Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Pho...
Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Pho...

Comments on The Renegade aka The Stigma Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 4, 2013

This was originally a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.

Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
By jimi thornburg
Apr 25, 2014

Since this climb is listed as a free climb rated 5.13, it should use the name of the free version, "The Renegade".

The Stigma is the aid climb.
By Jacob Smith
From: Mill Creek, WA
Oct 29, 2014

Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible.