The Stigma  5.13b/c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.13b/c [details] FA:  Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970, FFA Todd Skinner/ Alan Watts 1986 Submitted By:  Luke Stefurak on Feb 4, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Je...

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This stunning thin crack starts out hard with sustained 5.12- climbing up to a large Xenolith. A few tough moves get you established on the large foothold at the first bolt. From here the climbing becomes 5.13 in a hurry and within 5 feet all good footholds vanish. (Rumor says a useful foothold for the top section broke in the last 5 years).

Torque on the tiny pin scars, wishing that your fingers were smaller, and relish the idea that there are two good holds in the final 40 feet. Seems to be pretty solid 5.13 climbing.

This route is often used to for clean aid practice. You can test out body weight placements on the upper half, backed up by the free climbing bolts.

Location 

This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.

A top rope can be setup on this climb by doing the Enigma and rappelling or lowering from the a bolted anchor. You will need to swing a ways to the left. Clipping a few draws on the midway anchor and bolts will help get you to the Stigma anchor.

Protection 

Thin gear leads to two spaced bolts protecting the crux section. Bolted anchor with lower-off biners.

Photos of The Stigma Slideshow

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Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Pho...	Dave Schultz entering the first hard section of Th...	Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley...