Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Frigate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bowspirit 
Can Can 
Code of the Sea 
Flying Dutchman 
Frigate "walk off" 
Galleass 
Jib, The 
Pooper, The 
Stern, The 
Unnamed route 20 
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! 

The Stern 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jul 5, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: "The Stern" starts on the left corner, then at 10 ...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Starts with a boulder problem on the right face of the South arete. You generally follow this corner up, avoiding the main crack of Can Can. At the top, move back onto the South face into a seam.

The hard part is spotting the crimps - there is usually no chalk on this route.


Location 

The South end of the Frigate, to the left of Can Can.


Protection 

Some, mostly small nuts. It is also possible to use the Can-can crack in the mid-section.



Photos of The Stern Slideshow Add Photo
Tom checked the gear before he led this variation. <br /> <br />Jen, HC Pres, on the Pooper.
Tom checked the gear before he led this variation....
Comments on The Stern Add Comment
Show which comments
By jay.kalamazoo
From: kalamazoo, mi
Oct 31, 2009

- There is very little protection on this climb. many nice exposed moves on a beautiful little rock. I bailed and did "can-can".

By Tradoholic
Apr 30, 2010

Is there a direct version of this that goes straight up the face?

By Alex A
Jul 16, 2010

Yes there is Nick, it climbs the face left of the standard route, long reaches and some hard pulls,
PDH 5.12 PRETTY DAMN HARD

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 20, 2010

There is also a 5.10/5.11 version that has gear. Tom M. led it Saturday. Follow the regular route up the right hand edge of the very smooth face, and then side-pull left instead of going around the corner to the right.

By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010

Doug, how did you guys set TR on that variation? I use the anchor off The Pooper and then traversed over onto the face and got in a directional. Didn't see a better way.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 21, 2010

If you know what you are looking for, you can sorta see it in the photo:

I wrap webbing around the top block. Scramble up the back of the Frigate, stem the gap and mantel up, then wrap about 20 feet of webbing around the block you are on. I use two loops of webbing, because there are some sharp edges below, and actually some old webbing caught between the rock's teeth above that .12 variation.

FWIW, I think of these two variations as "Stern Stuff" and "Sterner Stuff".