The Staircase 

This climb really is worth doing. It's so easy to protect I think it's one of the best 'beginner' climbs in the canyon. For non-beginners the 2-3 move OW adds a bit of spice.

The "5.8 offwidth" variation isn't much of either, and is highly recommended. One of the best beginner routes in the state. It makes trad leading as mindless as it gets. Remove large nut, throw in crack, repeat.

I did this route on a Monday morning a few days ago and there were still three climbing parties on this rock. It was well worth the wait, but expect to wait regardless of when you go. This climb is no secret! I don't think I've ever been able to put so many nuts in a route before even though they're not needed.

I would just submit that "spicy" moves for beginners does not justify automatically retaining a 5.5 rating. Seems I recall that a climb is rated for the hardest moves, and others who have led this route agree there may be merit to a 5.6 (two moves or so) below the exit ramp near the top. The flared crack included in route topos at top is not a 5.5 - most parties exit left (before this crack)on a small babycrawl ledge to avoid the flare moves (5.8?), traversing to scramble rocks up to last belay.

Personally, I thought this was an easy 5.5 to a 5.7 finish. The "5.8" wideness at the top is not nearly as hard as Vedauwoo 5.7 and slightly easier than the 5.8 cracks on the Turkey Perch for instance.

On the 5.8 part I put large pro deep in the OW and climbed just to the left of it on small flakes, felt like a 5.7.

Ran up the Staircase on Saturday 5-3-03 with my buds Jerry and Martha and had an excellent time. This was a great into for me to doing more than one pitch since this is a friendly moderate on great rock. Martha led the first pitch in fine form and Jerry cruised pitch two. The crux is at the start of the second pitch just prior to getting into the actual staircase portion of the climb and once you are into the staricase it is just fun climbing on a cool formation. Far exceeded my expectations and well worth the effort.

Don't be afraid to do the "5.8" variation to the end of the second pitch. It's one move of 5.8 (5.7?) into the crack, which protects well with a #3 Camalot, then easier climbing to the top. Highly recommended.

What Jim Erickson said of the East Slab of the Dome goes double for this climb,"pure, unadulterated fun - ignore it at your own loss".

Clarification: the "crux" section is just above large alcove at top of first pitch (across traverse from top of 5.10 and 5.8 bolted routes/anchors) and just below the actual stairs on second pitch. There is a quite vertical section which if sequenced properly can yield 5.5 moves, otherwise it ends up being 5.6. The OW crack up higher (5.8) above stairs marks a left escape to a ledge and various solutions to the summit. There is yet another crack higher (but easier) that also could justify 5.6, but it is clear the majority votes to split no hairs --thus it remains 5.5. Fantastic route, either way! Enjoy! Oustanding for new lead practice, too!

Just a note: this climb is not backpack friendly. Narrow slots in a few places made me wish I'd left my pack on the ground.

Soloed this route today, fun easy jug haul.

Took Victor up his first rock climb ever today (Saturday 7-2-05). He loved it.

Could be the best 5.5 in the Platte. Good belay stance for a party of three. If this is your first lead, be aware that on the second pitch right off of the belay is an area that you don't want to take a leader fall. It's a stem & smear problem, but if your head is not into it, you may want your partner to take the reins. A rescue here turned out to be a recovery.

I found, to avoid the rope drag issue, either commit to the short 5.8 OW (more like a .7- handcrack for me), or runout on easy terrain the traverse left, then right & up to a summit tree.

Descent by walkoff to the south.

Climbed this route at least 10 times, and I fell on the 2nd pitch about 25 or 30 feet up from the belay. A Blue Alien caught my fall, it was very wet in the back part of the crack (I slipped out trying an arm bar). We started first thing in the morning, you might want to wait for it to dry out before trying this section. ;)

I had to back off and clean the hand/fist crack on P2 for the sake of a follower, it felt 5.7 to me. Wish I could have gone that way because the rope drag going left on the ledge was horrendous. For a new follower, just pitch it out and belay from the huge ledge and do a short 3rd pitch to the top. Great easy lead!

For extra spice factor, the roof above the the first belay is phenomenal and protects easily with a pair of C3s. I did this variation a couple of weeks ago, you've just got to watch out for rope drag!

Wanted to do the 5.8 finish but was concerned that my follower who was shorter (and new) would have a hard time with it. Would recommend going for it and bringing the #3 cam up as you go and then pulling it altogether when you are on safer ground (and letting them follow on easy terrain to the left of it). Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack and recommend belaying on the ledge above the 5.8 crack as noted previously (finishing with a ~10 walk off on 5.2 ground w/no exposure) - communication with the belayer was super difficult due to noise of the river, wind, and ledges between.

Truly fabulous route!