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 ADVANCED
Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)
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5/8 TR 
K-1 TR 
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 
Kanaranzi Left TR 
Kanaranzi Roof TR 
Layback, The TR 
Lichen No Other TR 
Machete TR 
Molly's Jolly TR 
Squeeze, The T,TR 
Triple Chockstone T,TR 

The Squeeze 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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5/8 and The Squeeze on the left portion of the sou...

Description 

Follow the crack. Those not wanting to use offwidth/chimney technique will find many pleasing features within and outside the crack.

  • RCM&W #26, p.37.


Location 

This route is the crack in the corner to the right of 5/8.


Protection 

Leadable but you'd need big stuff, a #4 camalot would be your microcam. Standard top rope setup.



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By Pete Hunt
Jul 18, 2009

I climbed this without first consulting the guidebook because it looked fun, and had concluded a rating of 5.8. I was a little surprised to see that it was marked as a 7.

Anyway, ratings aside, the crux on this is pretty interesting and requires some creative body positions and maneuvering. It's a fun climb and worth doing in my opinion.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 26, 2009

I thought 5.7 was pretty spot on despite my choice of footwear (Teva sandals). Definitely worth doing if you're in the area and especially if you like the wide stuff.

By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This route is for sure a 5.7, weird move in the middle and I did it on Trad lead and would say its a PG13 route as my 6 would not even come close to being solid in the off width. Once you are past the 5.7 move that is well protected with a small cam its a cake walk. Climb on.