Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey et al 1959
Page Views: 26,035 total · 131/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Nov 30, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: starts below the small roofs, where there is a pin to protect the move. Angle around the left edge and up with minimal gear. Belay at a small tree about half way across the slab (5.8)
Pitch 2: Continue left across the slab on more sparse gear placements, but easy climbing to another tree at the start of a ledge (5.5
Pitch 3: After moving the belay around the corner to the left, climb easy 5th class corners for a full rope length to a good ledge surrounded by trees. The best moves are the top of this pitch. This can also be done in two pitches if desired. (5.7)
Pitch 4: A short pitch, that can be tricky to locate as it is all rather blocky. Climb almost straight out of the belay to the obvious steep crack that ends quickly on a ledge, then follow easier ground to the large open ledge at the base of the headwall (5.9)
Pitch 5: The reason to have groveled through the trees over lesser terrain to this point. A steep, beautiful north facing corner at the outside edge of the wall. It is gained by climbing the cracks to its right, off the ledge. Step left into the corner and jam and stem to the crux just below the exit. This is protected by an old pin, with great gear placements everywhere that will allow for a little old fashioned AO if needed. Step up onto the ledge to a bolt belay, bring the second up, then rap down and do it again! (5.10C)
Pitch 6: Follow easy ledges that wander up to the base of the Raven's Castle. (5.6)
Climb one of the Raven's Castle routes to the top, or move right around the bottom of the rock to pick up easier trails. descend via the tourist trail down the back.

Location Suggest change

From the top of Memorial Crack or Rock On, find the obvious trail heading up through the trees and trending right to the base of the wall. There are several fainter trails, but they all lead to the start of the first pitch, which is below several small roofs.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack with gear up to 3 inches. Singles on most everything will be fine with finger to small hand size pieces for the crux pitch, with stoppers at the bottom of the same. A .75 Camalot works nicely above the pin at the crux on Pitch 5

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