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Squamish Buttress
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Pan Tease Lower T 
Squamish Butt Face, The T 
Squamish Buttress, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Squamish Butt Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: L. Zamorano, B. Moon, S. Trotter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,540
Submitted By: John Wilder on Aug 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for the route, credit Sonnie Trotter.

Description 

This is a new variation to the Squamish Buttress that follows that route up to a ways below the .10c exit pitch before breaking left into the face on the gully and following ledges and crack systems up to the summit.

It is getting good feedback from folks who have climbed it so far and is cleaned and well protected- should be a nice addition to the Chief's moderate summit routes.

More information at Sonnie's Blog:
sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a...

Location 

Begins at the big block midway through Pitch 4 on Squamish Buttress. See topo.

Protection 

Same rack as for Squamish Buttress.


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By Steve Murphy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 30, 2010

This is a great addition, thank you Sonnie Trotter et al for establishing this! The first pitch offers great exposure on a 5.8, while the second pitch will likely offer 5.9 leaders a new experience. It's clean and ready to go.

I skipped the belay bolts and continued on the ledge till time to go up, and belayed there with the bolt and a nut. Less rope drag and easier communication on the second pitch.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

So much fun. I misunderstood the topo to think that the last pitch is 5.5, but it's the crux pitch with a 5.9 weird corner/flaring chimney section. It's rad, rig the pitches so you can do it. You don't need wide gear for it, but if you're squeamish you could probably fit a #4 Camelot in the back.
By Mark van Eijk
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, thanks Sonnie! I think I'm with Steve on skipping the belay bolts, waiting until the switchback/mantle significantly reduces rope drag for the chimney section. You can belay either off the bolt and gear or off the tree at the end of the ledge. The ledges to the top are easy, but pretty exposed and I definitely felt more comfortable plugging the occasional piece of gear (with generous runners) and staying roped for this section rather than scrambling.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 28, 2011

An easy fun route to take a novice to the top of the Chief. The "shoulder crack" pitch is fun. You can get up to the start of this route via a number of routes, we found that cruising up Slab Alley and Granville Street was the best as the other lines are usually quite busy on a sunny weekend.
By harihari
From: VANCOUVER
May 14, 2012

You do not need a #4 camalot for this. A .5 and a #1 or #2 perfectly protect that weird very cool flareg pseudo-chimney thingy.

If you have the option of doing this or the 10c, I would recommend the 10c-- it is a much cleaner, more direct etc pitch, but this is a great bypass for those who are tired and don't want to make the other 27 Sunday afternoon Buttress parties wait until dark while they aid the 10c pitch ;-)
By See Brown
Jun 12, 2012

Updated route info here .. Sonnie Trotters topo doesn't seem to be that accurate.

Squamish Butt Face
By Ed kelly
Jul 22, 2014

Really nice way to spend an afternoon. Has some great little sections, and it's well worth the less good stuff to get to the views from the top. One note though, the pitch 1 variation at the start of the buttress is 5.9 in the book, but I really thought it was a solid awkward 5.10a/b. so is you're near you limit go for the original start.
By BrettAtBond
Aug 17, 2014

Our group finished up st vitus with this variation and the 5.9 face pitch of butt lite was the unanimous favorite of the party. The chimney is fun too. Definitely worth checking out, especially for a consistent finish to any of the moderates up the apron.