The Spring (P1)
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Excellent corner climbing with a well-protected crux. The lower part of the route can be tricky to protect well. While the crux is turning the rooflet midway through the corner, the moves at the top of the corner has its moments!
There are two more pitches to the cliff top, which up the route's overall rating to 5.10. Also, a variation to P1 climbs the face and arete to the right of the corner at 5.10X ("Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too", FA 1985, Franklin and Mills).
In early season or after a larger rainfall, the namesake water flow spouting from the base of the route can be several feet high and wide. You may be able to traverse in to the corner, but - maybe not.
The obvious left-facing corner right of The Winter, and 50 feet right of Bold-Ville.
Descent: a bolted anchor, which serves as a common anchor for the Seasons, is on top of the block where the first pitch ends.
|Comments on The Spring (P1)
|By Dan Flynn|
Oct 10, 2010
Do p2 -- following Grey Dick, it crosses left, over p1 of the winter. Use the second fixed gear anchor above p1 of the winter (not the one normally used for tr'ing the winter).
A wicked fun roof problem awaits at the top, 10b and more like pg-13. Save a .5 C4 for the crux.
Aug 17, 2011
Or go straight up and do 2nd pitch of winter as in the new guidebook. Spicy move on the face with good pro below it. Just trust that a hold will show up once you get on the face.
Nov 10, 2013
Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.
Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the arete and RIGHT face just to the right of The Spring) is a touch tougher than 10+.
IMO it felt harder than the first pitch of The Winter (10d) and most of The Summer (11d).