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 ADVANCED
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

The Spring (P1) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ryan, Crowther and Nelson (FA, 1962) Reppy and Streibert (FFA, 1964)
Page Views: 2,005
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Darek Kuczynski on The Spring corner

Description 

Excellent corner climbing with a well-protected crux. The lower part of the route can be tricky to protect well. While the crux is turning the rooflet midway through the corner, the moves at the top of the corner has its moments!

There are two more pitches to the cliff top, which up the route's overall rating to 5.10. Also, a variation to P1 climbs the face and arete to the right of the corner at 5.10X ("Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too", FA 1985, Franklin and Mills).

In early season or after a larger rainfall, the namesake water flow spouting from the base of the route can be several feet high and wide. You may be able to traverse in to the corner, but - maybe not.

Location 

The obvious left-facing corner right of The Winter, and 50 feet right of Bold-Ville.

Descent: a bolted anchor, which serves as a common anchor for the Seasons, is on top of the block where the first pitch ends.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of The Spring (P1) Slideshow Add Photo
The Spring's P1 crux
The Spring's P1 crux

Comments on The Spring (P1) Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Oct 10, 2010

Do p2 -- following Grey Dick, it crosses left, over p1 of the winter. Use the second fixed gear anchor above p1 of the winter (not the one normally used for tr'ing the winter).

A wicked fun roof problem awaits at the top, 10b and more like pg-13. Save a .5 C4 for the crux.
By paulmadry
Aug 17, 2011

Or go straight up and do 2nd pitch of winter as in the new guidebook. Spicy move on the face with good pro below it. Just trust that a hold will show up once you get on the face.
By rogerbenton
Nov 10, 2013

Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.

Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the arete and RIGHT face just to the right of The Spring) is a touch tougher than 10+.
IMO it felt harder than the first pitch of The Winter (10d) and most of The Summer (11d).