This route is locally known as "The Spout or The Faucet". It has also been called "Paradise Falls"?
This has 3 pitches up to WI4.
Pitch 1: belay left of of rock band below a low angled gully. We found the 1st 50' to be thin and unprotectable. I expect later in the season this is probably pretty fat. Head up and right to a bulge. Belay at a small tree and augment with ice screws for the anchor, 190 feet, mostly WI2+.
Another option is to head up and left to a large dead Ponderosa pine with rap slings on it. This will allow you to reach the second rappel station on a tree up and right of the small tree mentioned above. 70', WI2+.
Pitch 2: climb a few steps up and right to the 2nd rap tree. 40' if you take P1, option 1 or 120' if you take option 2, WI3.
Pitch 3: this is the business. There are multiple options on this steep, upper section. The left and middle is WI3+ and the right is WI4 for approximately 80'.
Screws of all sizes and a selection of nuts. Extra sling material for raps.
Per Virginia_Alpinist: take 10-12 screws of various size, some small nuts for the 1st belay anchor and sling materal to augment the rap anchors.
Descent: Rappel the route. Then downclimb the nasty gully.
We found slings on a large tree at the top and a two bolt anchor with slings on the rock band to the right as you top out. Either can be used but the bolts allow you to toprope easily and make for a more direct rappel. There are also slings on trees as mentioned above for pitches 1 and 2.
Do a nasty 3rd class scramble up the massive drainage/gully on the N. Side of CR-344. This is on the face of the 13'er North of Princeton locally know as the "Dogstooth" or the "Hook". Take CR-306 (Main St.) West from Buena Vista to CR-344, which is the road to Cottonwood Lake. Take CR-344 for 1 & 1/2 to 2 miles. Keep your eye on the cliffs on the left (south) side of the road. You can see the route high on the face.
Time: 800+ foot elevation gain and 45 minutes to an hour depending on conditions. Look out for lots of loose rocks and boulders.
|Comments on The Spout, aka The Faucet, aka Paradise Falls
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 27, 2009
Made the hike up to the Faucet today. There's more snow up there at the base of the route than I've seen in several years. There is about 90' of WI3 to climb. We turned tail due to a large windslab that was hangin' up there in the bowl below the climb. Caution and snowshoes advised.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 19, 2014
Climbed this today. The first and second pitches consisted of icy, low grade snow. I can't see either pitches going above WI2. I wouldn't recommend roping up for either pitches as the climbing is extremely easy and not protectable.
The approach to this climb is not near as bad as the beta lets on, but it will take a good half an hour. Be aware before you commit to the approach that there is only one really worth it pitch. This being the third pitch, but it is an excellent climb though, so I would say it's worth the hike up.