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Anti-Sport, The T 
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Sport Climber's Demise, The T 
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The Sport Climber's Demise 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle / Sarah Hayden, 6/16/10
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: Cor on Jun 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Nice climbing with a little crux midway where it's wide and another pulling the lip of the upper (right) roof crack. Face holds on the right wall over the lip. Very fun climbing. Reminds me of Vedauwoo.

This route is The Anti-Sport brother. Both have well-protected trad roofs!


Location 

From Tunnel of Love area, scramble over right onto a giant rock and walk up to the bush at the start of the crack. Up the crack, and out the right of two roof cracks.


Protection 

Gear up to #4 BD Camalot. A #4 midway and a #4 in/over the roof are nice. A 2 bolt anchor is on top. You can also use these anchors for the top pitch of Dan Hare's 1977 route, Spare Rib, which is the left roof crack (wide).



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By slim
Administrator
Jun 22, 2010

Be advised, you sir, are treading on thin water. That's more dastardly than treading on thin ice, but I guess Jesus did it, so maybe it is ok, anyway I digress.... Your style of using widgetcraft shall be punished by burning your steak. Repent now, and go to McGuckin's and buy some bolts to adequately protect that deep fissure that you have forced upon the unwitting climbing community.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Keep it up HardCor, love your work! Keep rocking the boat, let's get out and do some of this kind of dastardly stuff together soon!

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I wouldn't say this is anything like Vedauwoo personally, but I did find it quite fun, and a heck of a lot better than it looked from the ground, that's for sure. Nice addition, especially to an already very popular crag and a sport one at that. I would also say the roof is no harder than the other new route, The Anti-Sport.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A pretty good climb with fun and interesting moves on great rock. Frankly, I was surprised at how good it was. The crux is a great problem with good position in and of itself, but is a little too solid for the 5.11 grade. I'd put it below yardstick 5.11 roof/overhang moves such as Vertigo, or for that matter (given the width) perhaps I should compare it to The Diving Board, which is also harder.
Perhaps I found a different sequence, as this route seemed about the same if not slightly easier for me than The Anti-Sport, though I was informed I missed a crux jug on that one. Solid 5.10 or 10+ for this route. The difficulty of the climbing should not be a consuming argument, but I wanted to be sure that people are not unreasonably scared to try it.

By Rich Farnham
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I really enjoyed this climb as well and think Tony said it well -- it's just a little too solid for 5.11. That being said, I think it is a little tricky as an onsight. The easiest way through the roof is not the most obvious. If you just charge straight through the roof, maybe it is 5.11.

I was glad to have (2) #3 Camalots, and at least (1) #4. I think singles on everything else worked fine.

Unfortunately, the anchor is way off to the right, so getting a TR on this would be a bit of a pain.

By Cor
Aug 30, 2010

Thanks for the grade info from all. I changed it to 10+, because I love a sandbagged rating anyway. Haven't been back on it for a while, and I am sure there is easier ways out the roof than what I did....
Anyway, glad everyone is having fun on this thing!
P.S. good comment, Tony. Yeah, don't be scared of this thing.... It is fun, and protects well.

Rich, maybe you were looking at the wrong anchor? It is at the very top of the cliff, inline with the route. (No directionals needed.)

Cheers!
Cor

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route, Cor, good job!