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 ADVANCED
The Spire

Select Route:
Blow Chow T,TR 
Center Slab S 
Dire Spire T,TR 
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 
Hire Spire T,TR 
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 

The Spire 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Jul 25, 2001
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Description 

Approximately 6.0 miles up the canyon from Lyons. The Spire is across the river from a large pullout. Has several trad routes (which can be toproped) scramble to the top on the right side and scramble out to a nice alcove at the top. I may plan on adding a rap station/ top rope bolts at the top in the near future. Routes face north so this is nice for hot summer days. Rock is solid and has cracks that take protection well (You may need to garden a little). Only access issues might be crossing the river, and dodging poison ivy.


Getting There 

Drive up the canyon approximately 6 miles above Lyons, Pull out is on the left, and find the best place to cross river. The rock should be obvious.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Spire:
Center Slab   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Spire

Featured Route For The Spire
Tim Davis follows Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The Spire, in the SSV.  Photo by Tony Bubb 10/2010.

Full Nelson Reilly II 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : Lyons : ... : The Spire
Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Spire
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News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Comments on The Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By pete cogan
Aug 20, 2003

No need to walk off The Spire: there are two new bolt lines and two new anchors at the top. One bolt line runs next to Dire Spire; the second is to the right of Blow Chow and heads up the arete.

By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2003

Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2003

Brian there are some comments on this on the main SSV page. Search for "brown" and read comments made by him and others.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2003

Two new routes on The Spire (Right Arete and Center Slab) were added to the cb.com database today.

By John Worthen
Sep 4, 2006

We wanted to climb the Spire today, and it seems like several of the bolts have been cut. Does anyone know why?

By Toshia Leonhardt
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 9, 2008

Anyone know what the center slab is rated? It's not in the Lyon's area book, yet in fact many routes are not listed in SSV canyon yet and they are clearly not THAT new! What's up w/ a new guidebook?