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Routes in Holts Ledge
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Battle of the bulge, aka:Jaws WI3 |
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Committed WI3+ |
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Crown Royal T WI4 M4 |
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Green Chasm WI4-5 |
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Its Curtains WI4 |
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Left to Trees Slab WI3+ |
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Scottish Gully WI3+ |
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Spiral Staircase, The WI4+ |
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| Type: | Ice, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bradley White, Tom Armstrong, 1/84 |
| Page Views: | 2,240 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Nov 20, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers mandatory parking to know your at the ledges
Details
In April, 2017, a large access problem arose at Holts Ledge when the town of Lyme Selectboard voted to remove all of the climbing bolts that had been placed at Holt’s Ledge and close it to climbing. Climbers objected and the Selectboard’s previous decision was put to a town vote.
In October 2017, town residents overwhelmingly voted to remove all of the bolts that had been placed on the cliff. In 2018, despite an outcry from the local climbing community, many of those bolts were cut, damaged or removed.
In 2018, climbers were able to show that Dartmouth College actually owns the cliff, not the town of Lyme. In October 2018, the town of Lyme rescinded its 2017 rule barring climbing and closing access to the cliff.
Dartmouth College currently has this to say about the ledge:
outdoors.dartmouth.edu/acti…
Holts ledge is being ice climbed without issues. What has changed radically is the approach. Presently access is only by going up from the Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges. Access is by the Green Pastures ski trail at the far southeast end of the ski area - follow the green signs. I didn't know of this trail or I would have notified MP of this place long ago. Access became a issue in the late 1980's when there was private land development. Anyway are enough of us to find out anymore details from the D.O.C. about climbing there.
In October 2017, town residents overwhelmingly voted to remove all of the bolts that had been placed on the cliff. In 2018, despite an outcry from the local climbing community, many of those bolts were cut, damaged or removed.
In 2018, climbers were able to show that Dartmouth College actually owns the cliff, not the town of Lyme. In October 2018, the town of Lyme rescinded its 2017 rule barring climbing and closing access to the cliff.
Dartmouth College currently has this to say about the ledge:
outdoors.dartmouth.edu/acti…
Holts ledge is being ice climbed without issues. What has changed radically is the approach. Presently access is only by going up from the Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges. Access is by the Green Pastures ski trail at the far southeast end of the ski area - follow the green signs. I didn't know of this trail or I would have notified MP of this place long ago. Access became a issue in the late 1980's when there was private land development. Anyway are enough of us to find out anymore details from the D.O.C. about climbing there.
Description
Start on approach ice until at base of the pillar(sometimes not strong for screws). Climb pillar crux then go left into the corner. Higher up the corner it is the twisted crux(like a plastic kid park spiral slide). It begins near vertical then has a short vertical crescendo finish. I always had trouble with the pillar. Other climbers have said the top part is the crux.
The pillar can be skipped by a small passage way up besides the pillar at WI3+, looking up left side. This route is good for mixed climbing during drought winters.
The pillar can be skipped by a small passage way up besides the pillar at WI3+, looking up left side. This route is good for mixed climbing during drought winters.
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