The Spins  5.12c

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet FA:  Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, Peter Hunt. 01/05 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Mark Tarrant on Jan 29, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The Spins is on the center and right side of the flat wall just right of The Buzz. Start in the obvious right-slanting crack (.9+, great gear), then follow 5 bolts to the right arete. A little momentum will help with the first hard move at bolt 2 (.12a/b). Pass a difficult section before the crux at the fourth bolt. A final tricky move will put you near the anchor. Expect several hard sequences on good rock with few if any rests up to the last bolt. The wall is pretty steep and, like all the routes in this alcove, heats up nicely in the morning sun during the fall and winter.

The quality of the route is somewhat diminished by its close proximity to a nasty chimney on the right. Watch out for a big, detached pillar resting precariously in the chimney near the third bolt. It should be avoided at all costs.

Protection 

Wires and medium cams. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60'.