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There is only one climb here, but it is worth publicizing since it is a useful change of pace for Dream Canyon, an east-facing, overhanging jug-haul.
On the west side of the river, across from the left side of Lost Angel. The base has an excellent view of the crux of Strange Cargo. Conversely, the routes on Lost Angel which start by or in the river have a good view of the heavily chalked Spider's Den.
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This overhanging jug haul is a worthwhile way of extending your day after the main areas in Dream Canyon come into the summer sun. Quite steep, the anchors overhang the start by about 12', it is unrelenting but did not seem to me to have a defined crux. You wouldn't want to blow the second clip, but it is from good holds.The 12a rating in Rolofson's guide seemed quite soft, even by the standards of DC; at Wild Iris this would probably be 5.10....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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