This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face. A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.
Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start. Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere. 5.8, 80'.
P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts. This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.
P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left. Belay from bolts. 100'
P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.
The usual stuff will suffice. Bring walkoff shoes.
BETA PHOTO: The Sperm from the ground
Stef getting squeezed
climbers in the first pitch squeeze
Pitch two hand jams
Coming up the chimney.
Unknown climbers on the third pitch
Following the sweet handcrack pitch #2.
|By Danny Inman|
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P1 and P2 are straight forward. I ended up doing P3 and P4 as one long pitch which worked out well. Judging from the lichen on P3 and P4 these pitched are seldom done, but are worth while.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 3, 2007
First pitch didn't feel like 5.8, It felt more like 5.6. The next two pitches are considerably harder.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This was my first real chimney of any kind and it was a hard lead for me, but about half way up I kinda figured it out and actually enjoyed the last 20 feet or so. Didn't know the grade before I started so I won't speculate on what it felt like... all I know is that the next one will feel easier.
Lead the second pitch as well but my calves were burning from LK the day before... at about the half way point I was actually wishing that it was more vertical!
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The chimney was by far the hardest part. That thing thrashed me.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011
Freaky Deaky fun stuff all around!! First pitch is super straight forward but you better harness your inner Santa Clause because its all Chimney!! Second is pretty classic slab/crack climbing, quality stuff but the less then vertical pumps your calfs out. Third/fourth link up is fun and exposed off the belay and slackens up as you reach the eyebrows above. At the tree ledge we walked up right and rap'd off the two trees with fix slings down to the bolted belay on "Deep Throat" and then to the deck.
- two 60m ropes will do just fine if you want to save yourself a walk off*
|By DJ Shalvey|
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ummm, not 5.6. Really?! Well, anyway, the first pitch for me was the crux. The chimney part was no big deal and the crack/slab pitch was awesome. Go do it, but don't do it if it's wet, at all. Hey, have a great day now!
|By Kyle Kimball|
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second pitch Definitely felt like the crux to me. First pitch is just so fun though, kind of wish it was easier to do it by itself. Third pitch wasn't that great though once you get past the super fun moves right off the belay.
Also, the beta page should be changed- there aren't any bolts on the third pitch.
Jun 22, 2014
Climbed The Sperm to the top on 6/21/14. There are no bolts at the top of pitch 3. Instead, you can build a three piece anchor in horizontals at a small ledge where there is an old, broken, 1/8inch bolt. Pitch 3 is the best part of the climb with intricate moves in the crack right after the belay at the start of the pitch. Clip a fixed pin and then angle left and up to the previously mentioned belay stance. The slab upper portion (pitch 4) is not well protected after the anchor, but the climbing is easy. You could link pitches 3 and 4, but rope drag would be bad.