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Northwest Recess
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The Souvenir 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Charlie Peterson, 8/95
Season: late spring through early fall
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: Erock on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Looking up at the roof of The Souvenir (roof is in...

Description 

P1) Climb up 4th class to belay at ledge same as The Error (5.6).

P2) Climb up the to the right of the 5.8 dihedral traverse roof to the right and clip fixed pins for pro. Very sustained roof (5.10c). Continue up to belay ledge.

P3) Crux pitch, climb right leaning small hands crack to small tree, then up past one bolt. Make sure you have your micro nuts for this pitch. Then work your way up and very this and sustained seam, protect the bottom with a .4 cam. Climb seam to bolt and past 3 more bolts, crux 5.10d. This pitch still keeps going, it is 165 feet long. Continue up crack that is 2-3 inches to a ledge where you will belay.

P4) Be careful with the loose blocks on this one above the belay, you don't want to knock these suckers off. From here its 5.9, i would rate it a 10c/d.

For the rest of the climb follow crack system and connect pitches to make it 6 or 7 pitches. You decide where you want to belay but there is a fixed pin and a crack that works well. You can combine the 5 and 6 pitch and then a short 7th pitch. then once at the top 4th class scramble to the summit.

Also a fair warning I doubt this gets much climbing because of the grade and sustained runout nature of the climb, so rock here on the slabs in the early art of the season can be a little flaky making the crux slab extremely hard, but not impossible for a good slab climber.

Location 

Start on the northwest recess, the same as the error or Sahara terror, pick any line that will get you on the ledge below the big roof to the right of the northwest buttress.

To get down normal decent is the north class 3 gully.

Protection 

Micros to #3, make sure you have one set of nuts, one set of micros and having doubles of the smaller cams are helpful although not needed. Bring 2 and 4 foot slings for belays and slinging trees.


Photos of The Souvenir Slideshow Add Photo
Me just below the Giant Roof on pitch two.
Me just below the Giant Roof on pitch two.

Comments on The Souvenir Add Comment
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By Murf
May 2, 2007

If you are going to take the trouble to post a route, please try to at least be literate. The route name is Souvenir, not Souvineer. It was put up by Bob Gaines and Charlie Peterson, in August of 1995, not the 60's. I can't imagine why you'd need a 70m rope as noted in the photo. Why you'd rate it 10c/d when you needed to be lowered to get the 10c roof free makes no sense. There is only one R section on the route, and that is the beginning of the 3rd pitch. The rest of the route is actually quite well protected.
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Route is fine with a 60m. one runout section(2nd pitch) of 5.9 after leaving the Dogleg but not bad. the crux slab is well protected. The third pitch is a little R but there are old pins to clip.

overall sweet route. I will second the fact that the slab can be just a tad grainy.

Most importantly, the route description completely misses the last two bolts of the second pitch. There are a total of SIX bolts on the second pitch.

Pitch 2-after leaving the dogleg, follow the thing crack/ seam to a pin. Move up and left on slab to a bolt. then higher up to a crack. The crack turns to seam and you are at the three bolt crux section. After the crux it is tempting to head right onto easy ground. the real route continues straight up (just to the left of a small right facing dihedral) on a small clean face. continue as it describes above.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I highly recommmend this route. The "R" section for me was tamed with some aliens, and not too difficult. I have been on many non-R rated routes in this area that were much more scary than this, do not let the book rating discourage you, the FA is just badass and probably just blasted to place the pin high. Just make sure you can climb 10d slab. No way to cheat through this unless you haul up a stick clip.

P2 roof can be done straight up at 5.8, or you can add the spice and traverse right on 10c.

The first hanger appears to have been bent over by rockfall but it is still clippable.

I blew by the last two bolts on a right facing dihedral. They are really not too far above the 10d section and they blend in well, so keep your eyes out. Just left of a bush.
By x15x15
Sep 26, 2011

Agreed!!! definitely another great route that has fallen into obscurity. don't cheat yourself though, do the 10c roof. Totally pumper, and totally protectable!

going for the bolt on the 10d slab section is as mschlocker says,No way to cheat through this!