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Monument Rock
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Mudolomania 
South Face, The 

The South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1966 - unknown
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Dec 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Route topo.

Description 

Pitch 1: Begin in the middle of the south face of the tower, climbing up to a hangerless bolt at 20 feet (5.4). From here, wander up and left to a deep slot where you'll (hopefully) find two pins in questionable rock. These pins don't look good, so don't plan on falling on them. From here traverse back left to the end of the slot, and climb up on huecos (5.6). Depending on exactly how you do this, you may be able to slot a medium cam in the horizontal slot at your feet. Continue climbing up and left until you gain the ridge, then climb straight up the ridge (5.8) to a drilled pin (which actually may be good), conveniently located just after the crux moves. Mantel onto the prominent ledge just below the summit on the west ridge, and sit in the hole to belay.

Pitch 2: Continue east along the ledge until you can climb up through the large notch in the middle of the summit block on the south side (5.5

Descent: There is a summit anchor, some old pins which were backed up in 1998 with more bad pins. Your best bet is to simul-rappel.


Protection 

Gear: Long slings, a medium cam or two, a nut (for the hangerless bolt) and a couple of quickdraws. A couple of baby pitons or LA's might be used, but they probably won't hold much of anything.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 5, 2002

Just for the record, the FA was by Fuzzy Mench and partner.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 10, 2002

How could such a circuitous route on horrible rock get 3 stars?

By Dan Russell
Feb 12, 2002

I gave it three stars because it's a classic formation in the Springs area. Since there is so much bad rock around here, there are several classic climbs on bad rock. I think being circuitous adds to it. You wander all over this big messy face and end up chilling out on this sunny ridge, it's beautiful.

Is Fuzzy the same Fuzzy who did Fuzzy's Farce in Garden of the Gods? I know the first ascent was in 1966, was that Fuzzy?

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 4, 2002

Yeah, I'd have to say that this is an absolute classic. It's definitely the worst rock, ever, period, but getting up it is a wonderful test for the soft rock master. Also, the line and the tower are really cool - not a lot of stuff like this outside of Utah.

By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2003

I heard this was a great route, but that it was so scary that most of the old-school badasses wouldn't even go near it. Anyone know if this is true? It sure looks just wicked-burly!

By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2007

This looks similar to the Pawnee Buttes way East of Ft. Collins. I've climbed one of them via some cowboy Moqui steps. Can't imagine that the other one hasn't been climbed, but I never went over there to check it out. Anyone?

By Brian C.
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 22, 2013

Malcolm - mountainproject.com/v/west-butte---northeast-face/107358702