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Soul-Man Traverse aka Hot Line-Camptown Races-Slammerjam-Kingpin
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | matters not |
Page Views: | 1,522 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Jed Alan on Dec 10, 2012 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This route follows The Hot-Line, or the Hiccup Deluxe linkup, then traverses down Camptown Races, to a sliding down of the bottom half of Carl's Corner's second pitch. Then goes up Slammer Jam, to Backwards under the Candyland pitch under the Great Roof, then over to Kinpin's last two pitches. This is an unconventional approach to climbing in some respects, and may seem a little silly, but it is a full on, intense climb, and connects many of the best pitches on the face in a unique fashion. If you do it you will find it to be less contrived than it may seem.
P1-3) follow the "Hot Line" which is the first pitch of The Nose(5.10) to the second pitch of Cat's Pajamas (5.8) to the splitter third pitch of Reunion (10a).
P4) the crux of this linkup is downclimbing Camptown Races, which is a traverse with a downward trend. This is more of a toprope scenario for the person leading, but they must seriously consider their follower while placing gear, and protect the crux as well as possible so that the follower doesn't smash into Carl's corner if they miss the intense switch from underclinging to dropping onto crimps...Once in Carl's corner, sliding down it is fun , but don't forget to place gear for follower. (5.11a crux in the downclimbing direction)
P5) Combine what is traditionally known as pitch 2 and three of Slammer Jam **** (5.9+)
P6) Traverse backwards under the Candyland roof and protect well for the follower (5.8+)
P7) Traverse from the ledge under the Great Roof to the ledge at the base of the face pitch on Kinpin (5.8+)
P8-9) Climb the last two pitches of Kingpin (5.9-5.8)
P1-3) follow the "Hot Line" which is the first pitch of The Nose(5.10) to the second pitch of Cat's Pajamas (5.8) to the splitter third pitch of Reunion (10a).
P4) the crux of this linkup is downclimbing Camptown Races, which is a traverse with a downward trend. This is more of a toprope scenario for the person leading, but they must seriously consider their follower while placing gear, and protect the crux as well as possible so that the follower doesn't smash into Carl's corner if they miss the intense switch from underclinging to dropping onto crimps...Once in Carl's corner, sliding down it is fun , but don't forget to place gear for follower. (5.11a crux in the downclimbing direction)
P5) Combine what is traditionally known as pitch 2 and three of Slammer Jam **** (5.9+)
P6) Traverse backwards under the Candyland roof and protect well for the follower (5.8+)
P7) Traverse from the ledge under the Great Roof to the ledge at the base of the face pitch on Kinpin (5.8+)
P8-9) Climb the last two pitches of Kingpin (5.9-5.8)
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