The Soul-Man Traverse
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This route follows The Hot-Line, or the Hiccup Deluxe linkup, then traverses down Camptown Races, to a sliding down of the bottom half of Carl's Corner's second pitch. Then goes up Slammer Jam, to Backwards under the Candyland pitch under the Great Roof, then over to Kinpin's last two pitches. This is an unconventional approach to climbing in some respects, and may seem a little silly, but it is a full on, intense climb, and connects many of the best pitches on the face in a unique fashion. If you do it you will find it to be less contrived than it may seem.
P1-3) follow the "Hot Line" which is the first pitch of The Nose(5.10) to the second pitch of Cat's Pajamas (5.8) to the splitter third pitch of Reunion (10a).
P4) the crux of this linkup is downclimbing Camptown Races, which is a traverse with a downward trend. This is more of a toprope scenario for the person leading, but they must seriously consider their follower while placing gear, and protect the crux as well as possible so that the follower doesn't smash into Carl's corner if they miss the intense switch from underclinging to crimping...Once in Carl's corner, sliding down it is fun , but don't forget to place gear for follower. (5.11 in the downclimbing direction)
P5) Combine what is traditionally known as pitch 2 and three of Slammer Jam **** (5.9+)
P6) Traverse backwards under the Candyland roof and protect well for the follower (5.8+)
P7) Traverse from the ledge under the Great Roof to the ledge at the base of the face pitch on Kinpin (5.8+)
P8-9) Climb the last two pitches of Kingpin (5.9-5.8)
a rack of singles to doubles up to number 4
|Comments on The Soul-Man Traverse
|By Robin like the bird|
From: mountain center ,CA
Dec 22, 2012
I Heard this was called,, Jedi-soul traverse.