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The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 207,432
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 - Photogenic as all heck.

Thin Ice 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
This is a challenging, physical route up the center of the east face of the Sorcerer. It is also the easiest way up the rock. P1: Begin at the left of two massive right-facing flake/corners (the right is the start to Atlantis. Ascend this corner until it turns into a splitter crack and continue up. Eventually traverse right to the next crack system on some ramping flake features and up to a bolted belay. A long pitch; 5.10-.P2: the crack system turns into a flaring, stren...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Rock Climbing Photo: sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...

Comments on The Sorcerer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!

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