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DescriptionThe east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b). Getting ThereApproach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sorcerer:
Sleight of Hand 5.10a/b Trad, 2 pitches
Thin Ice 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches
Lost at Sea 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch
Wailing Banshees 5.11a/b Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet
The Raven 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch
The Don Juan Wall 5.11b Trad, 5 pitches
Ice Pirates 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches
Tradewinds 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Atlantis 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 4 pitches
Scirocco 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Pinhead 5.10d CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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