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 ADVANCED
The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 163,783
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
P1 - Photogenic as all heck.

Thin Ice 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
This is a challenging, physical route up the center of the east face of the Sorcerer. It is also the easiest way up the rock. P1: Begin at the left of two massive right-facing flake/corners (the right is the start to Atlantis. Ascend this corner until it turns into a splitter crack and continue up. Eventually traverse right to the next crack system on some ramping flake features and up to a bolted belay. A long pitch; 5.10-.P2: Continue up the crack system; 5.9 ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for The Sorcerer
Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Sorcerer
Sorcerer
Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...

Comments on The Sorcerer Add Comment
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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!