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Looking for a fun and quick ascent of a 14er before work? Then head to Summit Lake on the Mt. Evans road and climb the Snave Couloir. This moderate and short route provides nearly 1,400' of snow climbing on the north face of Mt. Evans and plops you out right at the summit, above the parking lot.
With a car shuttle, you could drive down to Summit Lake and be gone in as little as 2 hours round trip. The route involves moderate snow, to 50 or 55 degrees maybe, and some short steps of water ice in the WI2- range or 4th class rock climbing depending on when you catch the route.
This is on the North face of Mt. Evans above Summit Lake. Hike into the bowl/cirque and head climber's left. The Snave takes the couloir up to the prominent notch just left of the summit.
Ascend the snow fields and gain access to a large ledge/bench system and either come at the Snave from the left (easy) or take one of the other options just below the couloir which might involve some easy ice climbing.
Crampons, mountaineering axe and maybe one ice tool for the ice sections.
Taking the Brute variation to gain the couloir. P...
Scottie B. ascending the Brute variation to the Sn...
Upper couloir, at the 4th class section.
The start of the 4th class rock/snow/ice mixed sec...
Dennis beginning the crux of the route near the to...
Dennis about to top out on the Snave.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of route. Red is the variation we took. The...
Scott and Dennis climbing the narrow runnel of ice...
|By J. Fox|
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 23, 2009
My party and I took the line in the topo photo above. We found some water ice in the WI2- range. The rest of the climb was moderate snow, great, front pointing and solid tool/axe placements. The 4th class rock at the top was a fun finish to the route, but too short!