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Mount Evans, North Face
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Snave Direct, The T 

The Snave Direct 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI3-4 Steep Snow

Type:  Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b WI2+ [details]
FA: Jacek Czyz, solo June 29, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring
Page Views: 1,260
Submitted By: Jacek Czyz on Apr 11, 2011

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Me on The Snave Direct of Mount Evans. Photo: J.Cz...


From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climb some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left site of couloir. After crossing main couloir climb a brillant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above small overhang (2nd crux), climb 50' mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band was climbed mostly on snow at list at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger, Dennis ?, and Jeff Fox.

TR: scottborger.com/gallery.php?ga....


This is the steep wall just below main summit.


Solid rock. Few stoppers and cams to max 3". Also useful 2-3 short screws.

Photos of The Snave Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The north wall of Mount Evans. The Snave and The S...
BETA PHOTO: The north wall of Mount Evans. The Snave and The S...
The Snave Direct, 2009/06/29. Photo: J.Czyz
The Snave Direct, 2009/06/29. Photo: J.Czyz
First pitch on the lower band of The Snave Direct....
First pitch on the lower band of The Snave Direct....

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