The Snave Direct
Easy 5th WI3-4 Steep Snow
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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||Easy 5th WI3-4 [details]|
|FA: ||Jacek Czyz, solo June 29, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Jacek Czyz on Apr 11, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: The north wall of Mount Evans.
The Snave and The S...
From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climbed some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left site of couloir. After crossing main couloir climb a brillant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above small overhang (2-nd crux), climb 50' mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.
The lower cliff band was climbed mostly on snow at list at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger + Dennis ? + Jeff Fox.
This is the steep wall just below main summit.
Solid rock. Few stoppers and cams to max 3". Also useful 2-3 short screws.
The Snave Direct, 2009/06/29.
Me on The Snave Direct of Mount Evans.
First pitch on the lower band of The Snave Direct....