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The Smoking Pickle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, 2004
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,341
Submitted By: jarthur on May 17, 2008
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At the end of the difficulties on the Smoking Pick...

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Description 

This has a very thin and difficult sequence which starts as soon as you take your feet off the ground and does not stop until you reach the 4th bolt. Once you've gotten to the 4th bolt, rests placed just where you need them will get you through the moderate finish to the anchors. It is just as good as the other 12s on this wall if not one of the best.

Although very similar to its neighbor Spontaneous Combustion, the crux section felt harder and more sustained. There is some loose rock along the way, but further ascents will help clear some of this away. Having your belayer wear a helmet is not a bad idea.


Location 

This is located at the Combustion Wall Area immediately left of Spontaneous Combustion.


Protection 

12 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of The Smoking Pickle Slideshow Add Photo
The crux start involves sustained cranking on insecure crimps and small pockets.
The crux start involves sustained cranking on inse...
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By Fred Knapp
May 19, 2008

A brilliant route. One of the best at Shelf!

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This route climbs more like a bouldery V4 to an engaging and exposed 5.9 headwall, both classics in their own regards. It's almost a shame that the upper slab is gaurded by such a stout beginning. 5 stars!

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2012

Great route and one of the best at Shelf. The opening bouldery sequence is brilliant. Once you hit the 4th bolt, the climb goes down a full number grade or more but is still engaging and fun, all the way to the top. Awesome route!

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Boulder problem to 5.9 climbing. Master the boulder problem (crimpy) and henceforth master the climb, barring broken holds. Solid climb*

By slim
Administrator
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.