At the end of the difficulties on the Smoking Pick...
This has a very thin and difficult sequence which starts as soon as you take your feet off the ground and does not stop until you reach the 4th bolt. Once you've gotten to the 4th bolt, rests placed just where you need them will get you through the moderate finish to the anchors. It is just as good as the other 12s on this wall if not one of the best.
Although very similar to its neighbor Spontaneous Combustion, the crux section felt harder and more sustained. There is some loose rock along the way, but further ascents will help clear some of this away. Having your belayer wear a helmet is not a bad idea.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Mar 2, 2009 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a
This route climbs more like a bouldery V4 to an engaging and exposed 5.9 headwall, both classics in their own regards. It's almost a shame that the upper slab is gaurded by such a stout beginning. 5 stars!
Great route and one of the best at Shelf. The opening bouldery sequence is brilliant. Once you hit the 4th bolt, the climb goes down a full number grade or more but is still engaging and fun, all the way to the top. Awesome route!
By Ben Hall From: Boulder, Colorado Apr 29, 2013 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Boulder problem to 5.9 climbing. Master the boulder problem (crimpy) and henceforth master the climb, barring broken holds. Solid climb*
By slim Administrator Nov 11, 2013 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.