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Otis Power Tower (aka B-day Tower)
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Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10), The 

The Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle, Eric Malmgren (birthday is September 7th)
New Route: Yes
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Cor on Sep 9, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4. A short slab pitch w/o gear....

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A nice climb up this tower we did on our birthdays, during the 4 Mile Canyon fire.


The route goes up the south face. Start up a short gully to reach the face. Pitch 1 faces west. The others face south. Btween pitch 1 and 2 we moved the belay up to where it gets steep again. There are nice cracks and slabs above. We moved the belay between pitches 3 and 4 also. This helps save time. Near the end of the last pitch - where it faces out, move left to the west side to finish up.

Descend a double rope rap to the climber's left of the tower (west/south). Walk the gully, then do one more double rope rap from a single large hex. Descend the rest of the gully.


Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos of The Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10) Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Pitch 3. <br />After pitch 2, move around a corner on the ledge to access this upper head wall of the tower.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.
After pitch 2, move around a corner on th...
Pitch 5. <br />Up cracks, when they end move left around the corner and up to summit.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5.
Up cracks, when they end move left around...
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