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The Smoke Bluffs 


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Lat, Long: 49.7061, -123.1401 Map
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


The Smoke Bluffs

Description 

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.


Getting There 

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Cat Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Neat and Cool
Laughing Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Wall Area
Pixie Corner   5.8-     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Pixie Corner
Mosquito   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Wall Area
Quarryman   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Penny Lane
Wonderland   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet   Wall Area
Wonderland   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Pixie Corner
Penny Lane   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Penny Lane
Smoke Bluff Connection   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches   Wall Area
Flying Circus   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Neat and Cool
The Zip   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Zip
Neat and Cool   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Neat and Cool
Split Beaver   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Split Beaver
Supervalue   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Boulder Gully
Popeye and the Raven   5.10c     Sport, 70 feet   Penny Lane
Climb & Punishment   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Penny Lane
Partners In Crime   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Penny Lane
Electric Ball   5.11b PG13     Trad, 75 feet   Octopus Garden
Yorkshire Gripper   5.11b     Trad   Penny Lane
Crime Of The Century   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Penny Lane
Browse More Classics in The Smoke Bluffs

Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
Casey above the crux and into the beautiful finger locks.

Partners In Crime 5.11a  International : Canada : ... : Penny Lane
This climb starts slightly down the hill from Penny Lane and Crime of the Century. I think this might be harder then Crime of the Century?climb a thin crack up to a layback flare or jam straight in, either way it's hard. The crux is the bulge 30 feet up....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of The Smoke Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
Mike leading one of the routes in this area (?)

Mike leading one of the routes in this area (?)


Comments on The Smoke Bluffs Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 10, 2009

There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.

There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now.