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This is a great and tough route that is overhanging and full of sharp crimps. Scramble to the top of the large ledge with your belayer to start the route. Stick-clipping the first bolt would be a smart idea.
The first two bolts are accessed by pulling on small crimps, making V5 moves. Large edges and small jugs help you run it out to the third both that is very awkward to clip because of the nasty small roof you have to fiddle with. Continue using sharp edges to pass more bolts, using good footwork. After clipping the last bolt, head left on two positive, but small, crimpers to slap the sloppers to top out. Once you are on top of the route, traverse back right to clip the anchors.
West side of BFD Rock. Just next to Campsite 3.
7 bolts and 2 chain anchors.
From: SL UT
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
F.A. Tedd Thompson
There used to be a pit toilet near the base of this route- the smell.