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Saul's Crack T 
Sloth (HVS 5a), The T 

The Sloth (HVS 5a) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Don Whillans 1954
Season: When it's dry
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007

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The crux roof of the Sloth

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After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.

This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!

1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall 'till beneath the roof, sling over The Cheeseblock. Now suck up and launch into Whillans' territory...big flakes allow progress to be made to the lip of the roof where jams allow exit moves into the much easier crack beyond.

Tip: Place pro only if you have the power to stop, keep yer feet up too.

Lisa Rands on this route here.


Crack splitting the huge roof.


Nuts, cams, slings.

Photos of The Sloth (HVS 5a) Slideshow Add Photo
Through the crux.  Keep moving, the holds are very...
Through the crux. Keep moving, the holds are very...

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