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The Sloth (HVS 5a)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 6
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Routes in Upper Tier
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Black and Tans (S 4a) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Easy Gully Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jeffcoat's Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Saul's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sloth (HVS 5a), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wombat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Don Whillans 1954 |
| Page Views: | 2,566 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.
This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!
1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall 'till beneath the roof, sling over The Cheeseblock. Now suck up and launch into Whillans' territory...big flakes allow progress to be made to the lip of the roof where jams allow exit moves into the much easier crack beyond.
Tip: Place pro only if you have the power to stop, keep yer feet up too.
This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!
1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall 'till beneath the roof, sling over The Cheeseblock. Now suck up and launch into Whillans' territory...big flakes allow progress to be made to the lip of the roof where jams allow exit moves into the much easier crack beyond.
Tip: Place pro only if you have the power to stop, keep yer feet up too.
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