The Slit  M5-6

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  M6- [details] FA:  Season:  Winter Submitted By:  j wharton on Jan 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Andy Grauch following the first pitch of The Slit ...

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Description 

This would make a horrible rock climb, but I thought it was quite good as a winter route. We even found a little ice on 1/29/12! 5 pitches of chossy, mixed silliness. The 3rd pitch is the crux--a thin corner leads to a tricky step right into a short ow--but the 1st pitch is also a littly funky. Work way left on the last pitch to exit. The climbing, and lots of pitons and relics on route reminded me of the Eiger North Face. This route is better, and harder than Hallett's Chimney.

Location 

Ascend the obvious gash between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses.

Protection 

A set and a half of cams plus some wires. A #5 is actually nice on pitch 3.

Photos of The Slit Slideshow

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Andy Grauch exiting the squeeze chimney and starti...	Chris Sheridan on P1.	Chris on the crux.