The Sleeper  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Checking out the start of The Sleeper. Foolish is...

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start in the crack climbing up from the end of the ledge. Place a piece of protection before starting up as a fall off the ledge would be bad for both the climber and probably the belayer. The toughest moves are getting up into the crack, but there are some great holds along the crack. About 2/3 of the way up, the crack splits in two - one continues straight up, the other slants to the right. While both cracks are about the same difficulty, the one of the right is better. Layback along the crack and continue to the large ledge at the top. Walk off.

Location 

From the tree and black water streak that mark Spinning Back Kick, continue down the wall past a second left facing flake to a ledge and a drop off. Rising up from the end of the ledge is a slight left leaning crack that leads to a small ledge 15 feet up.

Protection 

Standard rack, anchor off trees.

Photos of The Sleeper Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.

The crack gets really positive at this point.