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Upper Mount Scott
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Arm Bar T 
Atomic Elbow Drop T 
Atomic Knee Drop T 
Baldielox Buldge T,S 
Down for the Count T 
Foolish T 
Foolish Behavior T 
Frankly Scarlet T,S 
Groove rat T 
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 
Locomotive Breath T 
Mr. Green Slings T 
Pile Driver T 
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 
Roof Corner T 
Roof Crack T 
Sleeper, The T 
Spinning Back Kick T 
Toprope Route S,TR 
Two Trojans T 
unnamed off-width crack T 
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 
Wolfman's Route TR 
Yee Haw T 
Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse)  T 
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 

The Sleeper 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Checking out the start of The Sleeper. Foolish is...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Start in the crack climbing up from the end of the ledge. Place a piece of protection before starting up as a fall off the ledge would be bad for both the climber and probably the belayer. The toughest moves are getting up into the crack, but there are some great holds along the crack. About 2/3 of the way up, the crack splits in two - one continues straight up, the other slants to the right. While both cracks are about the same difficulty, the one of the right is better. Layback along the crack and continue to the large ledge at the top. Walk off.


From the tree and black water streak that mark Spinning Back Kick, continue down the wall past a second left facing flake to a ledge and a drop off. Rising up from the end of the ledge is a slight left leaning crack that leads to a small ledge 15 feet up.


Standard rack, anchor off trees.

Photos of The Sleeper Slideshow Add Photo
The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.
BETA PHOTO: The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.
The crack gets really positive at this point.
The crack gets really positive at this point.

Comments on The Sleeper Add Comment
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By Chris Walden
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Really awesome route! Could be tough for a new leader. Right at the start place a #2 in the crack head high to prevent a fall into the crevasse below. Really positive layback at the top. After the #2 to start there is a spot for a #1 on the first ledge, after that smaller cams and nuts.
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