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 ADVANCED
Bull Rock
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Bull Headed 
Dirty Earnie 
Not Too Steep for my Lichen 
Slanting Crack, The 
Too Cold For My Asspen 

The Slanting Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Archbold
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 24, 2012
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Description 

This is the left to right rising crack to the left of Dirty Earnie. It's a little dirty itself and doesn't seem to get much traffic, but it's a fun climb regardless. After clipping the bolt (optional) you'll encounter the sequence of 5.8 moves. After gaining the upper portion of the climb it's a easy jog to the top.


Location 

Left to Right rising crack just right of Dirty Earnie. You'll see the one bolt about 12 ft up.


Protection 

There is one bolt on this route but it really isn't needed. There is a good pocket maybe a foot to the left that takes a decent cam placement and another good pocket after the bolt to the right that takes another. Good gear throughout. Currently has no anchors, either set up a trad belay or finish the easy 5th class arete to the top of dirty earnie and use these anchors to belay from the top. Must be followed due to the nature of the L-R crack.



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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Nov 5, 2012

fyi, new guidebook lists this climb as 5.9+...